For France’s National Day, a return to cognac seems particularly fitting. Today’s focus shifts to Bourg-Charente, home to Famille Cabanne – the distillery responsible for that unforgettable and mesmerising 1924 100-year-old cognac. While they produce for renowned cognac and liqueur houses such as Grand Marnier, Courvoisier, and Otard, they also craft cognacs under their own brands: Richard Delisle and La Truffe. As we celebrate Bastille Day and contemplate cognac’s significance and tradition in France, we shall explore the Richard Delisle XO Grande Champagne, XO Club Cigare, and La Truffe XO cognacs.
The Importance and Tradition of Cognac in France
Cognac as a Spirit
As I’ve already written at length on this website, Cognac is a world-renowned brandy produced exclusively in the Cognac region of south-western France. Its creation is strictly governed by the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system, which ensures that only spirits distilled and aged under specific conditions within this region can bear the name ‘“’Cognac’. The spirit is made from white grapes – primarily Ugni Blanc – double-distilled in copper pot stills, and aged in French oak barrels for a minimum of two years. This meticulous process results in a spirit celebrated for its complexity, elegance, and depth of flavour.
Cognac’s reputation as a luxury spirit is deeply entrenched in French and global culture. Historically enjoyed by European nobility and high society, it has become a symbol of celebration, refinement, and French art de vivre. Its presence in fine dining, prestigious events, and even French cuisine (such as sauces and flambéed dishes) highlights its versatility and enduring prestige.
Savoir-Faire : The Artistry Behind Cognac
The production of cognac is the result of centuries-old savoir-faire – expertise passed down through generations. Every step, from vineyard cultivation to blending, requires specialised skills:
- Viticulture: The region’s unique terroir, with chalky soils and a temperate climate, produces grapes ideal for distillation.
- Distillation: Cognac is distilled twice in traditional Charentais copper stills, a process refined since the 17th century to enhance purity and flavour.
- Ageing: The spirit matures in French oak barrels, where it develops its signature aromas and golden color. Master blenders (maîtres assembleurs) then combine eaux-de-vie of various ages and crus to create harmonious blends, single crus or even single casks.
- Transmission of Knowledge: The savoir-faire of cognac is considered a living heritage, with skills and traditions evolving but always rooted in respect for the product and the land.
This collective and patient craftsmanship is recognised as part of France’s intangible cultural heritage, underscoring the spirit’s role as more than just a drink – it is a cultural artefact.
Cognac and French Identity
Cognac holds a unique place in France’s national identity:
- Symbol of Excellence: Cognac embodies the French ideals of quality, luxury, and refinement. Its international reputation has made it a global ambassador for French culture and savoir-vivre.
- Economic Importance: With over 98% of production exported, cognac is the second-largest export in France’s wine and spirits sector. Every year, more than 200 million bottles are shipped to over 150 countries, making it a pillar of the French economy and a significant contributor to the country’s prestige abroad.
- Cultural Heritage: The traditions, rituals, and celebrations surrounding cognac are deeply woven into the fabric of French society, especially in the Charente region. The spirit’s history, from Roman viticulture to its rise as a luxury good, reflects the evolution of French craftsmanship and commerce.
Conclusion… and a Regret
Cognac represents far more than just a spirit; it embodies French heritage, craftsmanship, and identity. With its tradition of savoir-faire, unwavering commitment to quality, and global influence, Cognac stands as a timeless symbol of France’s cultural and artisanal excellence. It seems regrettable, however, that only 2% of its production remains in France, and that the country of its origin does not always accord it the recognition it merits, leaving that appreciation to other nations. Even I must admit that, until recently, I did not fully appreciate the significance of Cognac. But now that I have discovered its true value, I will not overlook it again.
On this Bastille Day, our National Day, I would like to raise my glass to all the women and men of the Cognac industry – producers large and small, independent or otherwise, winegrowers, winemakers, distillers, négociants, and blenders – who continue their vital work through challenging times.
Richard Delisle XO Grande Champagne Cognac Review
We start with the Richard Delisle XO Grande Champagne Cognac, a 30-year-old expression crafted solely from grapes cultivated in the Grande Champagne terroir. Following maturation in aged casks within a humid cellar, the cognac is bottled at 40% ABV. It retails at approximately €115 in France. Try Famille Cabanne’s website or Cognac-Expert for worldwide shipping, for instance.
Colour:
Russet.
Nose:
Neat: The nose presents a delightful array of yellow fruits, including apricots and peaches, accompanied by notes of cinnamon, caramel, and a soft, woody aroma. Red and golden apples, dried mango, liquorice, and traces of orange also emerge.
Palate:
Neat: The palate offers a well-balanced woodiness. Despite the low ABV, it delivers a good intensity and a lightly syrupy mouthfeel. Flavours of dark caramel, wood spices such as pepper and cinnamon, and dried fruits like figs and dates unfold, alongside tropical fruits like mango. Hints of lavender candy and liquorice also appear.
Finish:
The finish reveals light wood and dark chocolate, along with toffee. The hint of lavender candy from the palate lingers persistently. A slight astringency from wood tannins adds just the right touch of structure to the finish.
Comments:
This Richard Delisle XO Grande Champagne Cognac presents itself as a beautifully balanced middle-aged expression. It strikes a harmonious chord between fruits, spices, and wood, with a subtle lavender note that lends an additional touch of elegance. Lovely. Priced at approximately €115 per bottle, it offers excellent value for money.
Rating: 7.5/10
Richard Delisle XO Club Cigare Grande Champagne Cognac Review
This Richard Delisle XO Club Cigare Grande Champagne Cognac was aged for at least two decades, before being bottled at 42% ABV. This is priced for slightly less than the Richard Delisle XO Grande Champagne, around €105 a bottle.
Colour:
Russet
Nose:
Neat: The nose indeed reveals distinct tobacco aromas, as well as cigar box. This observation, despite knowing the name of this cognac, remains unbiased, as verified against my actual cigar box and its contents. The intensity, however, does not match that of directly smelling a cigar box, of course. Additional aromas include quince, orange, leather, milk chocolate, and cinnamon.
Palate:
Neat: Initially, the mouthfeel appears slightly thin but quickly develops a subtle syrupy texture. The cognac lives up to its name, offering cigar spices and a pleasant tobacco earthiness. Flavours of French wood spices, abundant chocolate, salty caramel, and hints of candied fruit cake and ginger cake emerge.
Finish:
The finish lingers with quince, candied fruit cake, caramel, and wood spices, accompanied by a touch of tobacco smoke.
Comments:
This Club Cigare lives up to its name, showcasing distinct tobacco and cigar box aromas and flavours. I will strongly consider pairing the remainder of my miniature bottle with a cigar on this Monday morning to celebrate France’s National Day. The cognac presents itself as a very good expression, though the palate may exhibit an excess of sweetness. Unfortunately, it remains unclear whether any dosage (light sweetening) contributed to this characteristic.
Rating: 7/10
La Truffe XO Petite Champagne Cognac Review
La Truffe (French for ’’’truffle’) is another brand from Famille Cabanne, created in 1946 for cognacs that show characteristics of undergrowth and truffle. There are three expressions: VS, VSOP and XO, and this is the latter we’re reviewing. Made exclusively from grapes grown in the Petite Champagne cru, this is bottled at 40% ABV. Around €60 a bottle.
Colour:
Tawny.
Nose:
Neat: The nose reveals citrus fruits, leather, and cinnamon, followed by vegetal notes of moss and undergrowth. Aromas of waxed wood, honeycomb, raisins, liquorice, and blackcurrant as well.
Palate:
Neat: The palate offers an abundance of caramel, figs, raisins, cinnamon, and pepper, accompanied by hints of liquorice and menthol, as well as candied fruit cake. The mouthfeel presents a pleasant, lightly syrupy texture.
Finish:
Pepper, liquorice, and raisins persist on the finish, alongside caramel and cane sugar syrup.
Comments:
This La Truffe XO presents itself as a vibrant Petite Champagne cognac. While the nose reveals vegetal and forest aromas, the promised truffle notes remain elusive. Admittedly, truffles, whether black or white, do not feature regularly in this humble taster’s diet. Nevertheless, this cognac stands as a very good expression and, at its price point, represents a safe purchase.
Rating: 7/10
Bottle pictures lifted from Cognac-Expert’s website. Miniature bottles provided by Famille Cabanne. Thanks Laurie!