Review Archives - More Drams, Less Drama

Bowmore 2002 Character of Islay/2000 WhiskySponge

5th March 20255th March 2025Coldorak

It’s hard to believe that a whole year has passed since we last delved into the world of independent Bowmore bottlings. The anticipation of exploring these unique expressions has only grown, and today, we find ourselves with the perfect opportunity to revisit this iconic Islay distillery through the lens of two exceptional single casks. Both of these whiskies, bottled by independent connoisseurs, were released in 2020 and have been carefully matured in bourbon casks. As we embark on this tasting (short) journey, it’s worth noting the unique position that Bowmore holds within the pantheon of Islay distilleries. Founded in 1779, it is one of the oldest distilleries on the island and has a rich history of innovation and craftsmanship. Despite its historical significance, Bowmore is often overshadowed by some of its more prominent neighbours, such as Ardbeg and Laphroaig. However, for those who take the time to explore its offerings, Bowmore reveals itself to be a distillery of exceptional quality and character. Most especially amongst its independent bottlings, as we’re not always as lucky with its official expressions.

North British 1989 & North of Scotland 1973 Scott’s Selection

3rd March 20254th March 2025Coldorak

Today, we’ll explore two single grain whiskies that share a common thread: their names both start with “North.” One has an intriguing history and is still in operation, while the other has a complex, double-layered past that has come to an end. If you’re feeling a bit confused, don’t worry—I intentionally made it sound complicated. So, take a seat, pour yourself a dram, and let’s break it down together. Once we’ve cleared things up, we’ll dive into tasting and reviewing two single casks: a North British 1989 and a North of Scotland 1973, both bottled by Scott’s Selection.

Clynelish 14yo / Cataibh 10yo Chorlton / 2012 SMWS

28th February 202528th February 2025Coldorak

A few years ago, two friends and I co-founded the Rennes Whisky Club, just before Covid hit. We managed to hold one session before the first lockdown, and after that, nearly two years passed before we could meet again. Once things settled, we relaunched the club and have been hosting monthly tastings ever since – except for a break in July and August. Each session follows a chosen theme, typically featuring three whiskies within that category. Last night’s tasting focused on a fan-favourite distillery: Clynelish. On the menu were three Clynelish whiskies: the official 14-year-old, a 10-year-old Cataibh bottled by Chorlton Whisky, and a 2012 ‘Tropical Toothpaste’ from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society.

Hellyers Road 17-Year-Old American Oak

26th February 202525th February 2025Coldorak

We’ve enjoyed a couple of Hellyers Road releases before, and they’ve been excellent – so why not try another? In 2022, they released a 17-year-old single cask for La Maison du Whisky. Given that their mid-aged single casks tend to be top-notch, there’s plenty of reason to be optimistic about this Hellyers Road 17-Year-Old American Oak.

St. Magdalene 1980 Gordon & MacPhail

24th February 202523rd February 2025Coldorak

St. Magdalene, one of Scotland’s lost Lowland distilleries, is renowned for its elegant yet complex whisky, often showcasing a delicate balance of fruit, spice, and subtle waxiness. Closed in 1983, its remaining stock has become increasingly rare, making any opportunity to taste a well-aged expression a special occasion. Today, I’m reviewing a St. Magdalene 1980, bottled by Gordon & MacPhail—a dram that promises to offer a glimpse into the storied past of this historic distillery. Let’s see how it holds up after a decade and a half of maturation.

Scotch & Sherry SMWS

21st February 202520th February 2025Coldorak

In 2024, The Scotch Malt Whisky Society (SMWS) released a documentary exploring the intricate relationship between Scotch whisky and sherry. This documentary, titled “Scotch & Sherry: A Flavour Odyssey,” takes viewers on a journey from SMWS headquarters in Leith to the oak forests of Galicia and the Sherry Triangle in Andalucia. The film delves into the process of creating sherry cask-matured whisky and introduces the artisans behind both the casks and the sherry used in the maturation process.

Accompanying this documentary, SMWS has curated a tasting pack featuring three whisky samples and two sherry samples (one Oloroso and one Pedro Ximénez). Let’s review the three whiskies, but skip on the sherries.

Two Calvados From Swell de Spirits

19th February 202518th February 2025Coldorak

Calvados is a brandy from the Normandy region of France, crafted from apples and sometimes pears. The spirit dates back to 1553, when the first known Norman distillation occurred. About 50 years later, the guild for cider distillation was created. Calvados got its protected name in 1942. The production of Calvados begins in the orchard, where cider apples, known for their richness in tannins, are harvested. Unlike regular apples, cider fruits are small. There are roughly 300 varieties of apples that Calvados producers can use. After harvest, the apples are mashed and pressed to extract the juice, which is then fermented into cider. This cider is then distilled to separate the alcohol from the water. Depending on the appellation, either a pot still or a column still is used for distillation. The resulting eau-de-vie is then aged in oak casks for a minimum of two years before being sold as Calvados. We review two Calvados from Swell de Spirits, a now well-known French independent bottler.

Defilement 26-Year-Old Maple Syrup Cask Finish

17th February 202515th February 2025Coldorak

As it turns out, among the cask types permitted for Scotch whisky maturation, maple syrup casks are not included in the approved list. This omission means that the spirit in question, despite its age and unique finishing process, cannot be legally labelled or sold as ‘Scotch whisky.’ Instead, it must be marketed simply as ‘whisky’ or potentially under a different category altogether. Back in 2020, Atom Labs struck again, and they released a 26-year-old whisky from a particularly famous origin into a cask that previously held maple syrup, and released it as a 26-year-old ‘just whisky’: the Defilement 26-year-old Maple Syrup Cask Finish.

Three 1987 to 1991 Indy Bunnahabhain

14th February 202513th February 2025Coldorak

I can’t believe I haven’t reviewed any Bunnahabhain on More Drams yet. Bunnahabhain Distillery, located on the northeastern coast of Islay, Scotland, has a storied history that reflects the evolution of the Scotch whisky industry. Founded in 1881 by William Robertson and the Greenlees brothers, Bunnahabhain was established to create a distinctive whisky that would stand apart from its heavily peated neighbours. The distillery’s name, derived from the Scottish Gaelic ‘Bun na h-Abhainne,’ translates to ‘Mouth of the River,’ highlighting its scenic location near the River Margadale. For a first post regarding that distillery, we’ll review three 1987 to 1991 indy bottlings of Bunnahabhain, but first, let’s quickly talk about their history.

Daftmill 2007 2010 Winter & Summer Batch Release

Four Daftmill 2007 to 2010, Summer & Winter

12th February 202511th February 2025Coldorak

Daftmill Distillery is a single malt Scotch whisky distillery located at Daftmill Farm in the Howe of Fife, in Scotland. Brothers Francis and Ian Cuthbert, sixth-generation owners of Daftmill Farm, converted the old mill buildings into a distillery. The distillery was granted a license in 2005, with the first spirit distilled on December 16, 2005. However, the distillery did not release its first whisky until 2018. Daftmill is one of the smallest distilleries in Scotland, producing only around 100 casks per year. It is known as a true farm distillery because it grows its own barley and uses water from its own spring. The distillery operates only two months in the summer and two months in the winter, during the farm’s off-season, in a very traditional style. The name ‘Daftmill’ comes from the Daft Burn, a stream on the property that appears to run uphill due to an optical illusion. Daftmill Distillery releases its single malt Scotch whisky in seasonal batches, specifically during the summer and winter months. These releases are typically aged over a decade and are supplemented by single cask vintage releases and a 15-year-old cask strength edition. Let’s take a closer look at those seasonal releases, as we review four Daftmill from 2007 to 2010, with two Summer & two Winter editions.