Australian whisky is experiencing significant growth, prompting questions about its identity on the global stage. Single malt dominates the scene, offering diverse options from tropical and fruity expressions to wine cask-forward whiskies. Heavy peat varieties are crafted by some Ozie distilleries whilst some others specialise in extensively aged malts. And moreover, Australian whiskies curated by renowned independent bottlers such as Adelphi, That Boutique-y Whisky Company, and others are now accessible, expanding the global reach of Australian whisky. Today we turn our glass to Boutique-y, as we try six Australian whiskies from That Boutique-y Whisky Company as well as an Australian Brandy, that were part of their Return to Oz collection.
Corowa Batch 1 That-Boutique-y Whisky Company Review
Corowa Distilling was established in 2010 within a historic flour mill situated on the border between New South Wales and Victoria states. Apart from crafting single malt, they’ve ventured into the realm of chocolate – not chocolate malt, but actual chocolate. Their inaugural release by Boutique-y, part of the Return to Oz series, is a four-year-old single malt bottled in 2023. Aged in an Australian Tawny wine cask, the expression yielded 592 bottles, each at 48.5% ABV. Priced at €109 in Germany or £109 in the UK, it showcases the transformed flour mill distillery on the label, alongside a nod to its humble origins: the purchase of the mill from the city council for a mere AUD$1.
Colour:
Tawny
Nose:
Neat: The presence of wine is unmistakeable, offering rich tones of dark and red fruits, accompanied by hints of wine and aromatic wood.
With water: The wine influence diminishes, and with just four drops of water in 1.5 cl, the nose becomes nearly imperceptible.
Palate:
Neat: The initial taste is sweet, though the mouthfeel is thinner than anticipated. The Australian tawny cask makes a strong impression, bringing forth flavours of red fruits, blackcurrant jam, hints of chocolate, and subtle wood notes. There’s also a touch of black pepper and tea leaves.
With water: Initially sugary on the palate, but quickly returns to its original profile experienced neat.
Finish:
Aside from the fleeting sweetness, the palate retains its character with a medium-length finish.
Comments:
Initially, I found myself disoriented by the pronounced cask influence, which seemed to overshadow the spirit (though I haven’t sampled it from a gentler cask to confirm). However, after a few sips, it began to grow on me. Its approachable ABV makes it easy to enjoy, although I’d prefer to drink it from a tumbler as the nose didn’t particularly appeal to me.
Rating: 5/10
Riverbourne Batch 2 That Boutique-y Whisky Company Review
Established in 2015, Riverbourne Distillery is a small operation nestled in Jingera, New South Wales, approximately 200 miles south-west of Sydney. The distillery is managed by a couple, with Martin Pye overseeing all aspects of whisky and rum production, while his wife Eileen handles bottling, paperwork, and distribution. Boutique-y’s second release of Riverbourne whisky, Batch 2, is a two-year-old single malt crafted from heavily peated Scottish malt. It was aged in a 100-litre cask constructed from recycled American and French oak wine staves, which were stripped and charred akin to the STR method. Yielding 260 bottles at 51% ABV (with, we can guess, reduction prior to bottling), this whisky is still available online for approximately €95/£100.
Colour:
Amontillado.
Nose:
Neat: Initially, there’s a pronounced woody aroma, reminiscent of rich wood rather than pine planks. Notes of vanilla, subtle tannins, distant hints of seawater, caramel, and wood smoke mingle, accompanied by a delicate hint of cinnamon.
With water: Even with a few drops added, the nose remains largely unchanged.
Palate:
Neat: Initially delicate and somewhat thin on the palate, it swiftly transforms into a richer experience, with pronounced woody notes and a notably creamier mouthfeel. Subsequent sips reveal intensified woodiness, reminiscent of sandalwood and cigar box, along with a surge of wood spices, suggesting a maturation in virgin oak. Light earthy peat and hints of wood ashes emerge on subsequent sips.
With water: Despite the addition of water, the peat presence becomes more pronounced, albeit remaining at a medium level. The persistent sensation of varnished wood persists.
Finish:
The finish leaves a lasting impression of earthy peat, accompanied by subtle herbaceous hints, reminiscent of tea leaves, and a touch of saltiness.
Comments:
I find it quite enjoyable. While it’s not overly complex and leans towards a more woody profile than I typically prefer, I still found it to be a pleasant dram. Unfortunately, the price point is rather steep for a 500 ml bottle of 2-year-old whisky. However, it’s important to consider that smaller distilleries often face higher production costs compared to larger ones, which may contribute to the premium price.
Rating: 6/10
Tria Prima Batch 1 That Boutique-y Whisky Company Review
Operated by Paul and Trang Shand, Tria Prima distillery was established in 2017, with their whisky only hitting the market in 2021. The Tria Prima Batch 1, bottled by Boutique-y, marks their debut independent release. This Australian Single Malt Whisky, aged for two years (which is enough to be called whisky according to Australian standards), was matured in an ex-Grant Burge, first-fill Tawny cask. Tawny, a fortified wine indigenous to Australia, undergoes a process akin to Portuguese tawny Port. With 232 bottles produced from the cask, each at 500 ml and filled at 51.2% ABV, this expression is still available from HTFW for approximately £140.
Colour:
Auburn
Nose:
Neat: The distillery’s character is nearly obscured by the dominant port cask influence on the nose. Red fruits, plums, and distinct winey notes prevail, accompanied by wood tannins.
With water: The aroma remains consistent, albeit with a sharper edge, retaining its red fruit and winey character.
Palate:
Neat: The palate boasts a syrupy texture, dominated by the port cask influence. Bold spices such as chili, Tabasco, and white pepper take centre stage, accompanied by notes of figs, underripe plums, dark chocolate, and a hint of soy sauce.
With water: Despite the addition of water, the profile remains largely unchanged.
Finish:
The finish offers a lingering chocolatey bitterness, with traces of the spices and wood notes persisting.
Comments:
While not particularly flawed, the whisky leaves a somewhat disappointing impression as it fails to provide a distinct sense of Tria Prima’s character. However, once this expectation is set aside, the whisky proves to be satisfactory.
Rating: 5.5/10
Limeburners Batch 1 That Boutique-y Whisky Company Review
Situated in the Margaret River region of South-Western Australia, Limeburners Distillery is a modest operation with an annual capacity of only 120,000 litres of pure alcohol. The Limeburners Batch 1 by Boutique-y is a 5-year-old single malt, aged in an ex-Pedro Ximenez Apera cask. With 434 bottles filled at 51.5% ABV, it remains available in Germany from €139 and in the UK from £145.
Colour:
Russet
Nose:
Neat: Whether influenced by the distillery’s name or not, the nose presents abundant lemon and lime notes, alongside hints of sandalwood, dark cherries, and a touch of varnish.
With water: Subtle nutty aromas emerge, accompanied by the sweetness of raspberry jam and sultanas.
Palate:
Neat: The palate offers a continuation of sandalwood notes, along with the presence of cherries and a thick mouthfeel. Stewed figs and dates provide a rich sweetness, complemented by a gentle warmth of spice. While there’s a hint of wood bitterness, it remains balanced. Hints of cigar tobacco leaves.
With water: The addition of water brings forth delicate flavours of lavender sweets and the creamy richness of peanut butter, accompanied by a touch of linseed oil.
Finish:
The finish reveals lingering notes of chocolate, accompanied by a subtle wood bitterness and the sweetness of cherry liqueur-filled chocolates, persisting for a medium length.
Comments:
This whisky offers a captivating experience, with both the nose and palate delivering intriguing flavours, including unexpected notes like lavender sweets and peanut butter when diluted slightly. However, its high price point may deter some, suggesting waiting for a favourable offer before making the purchase.
Rating: 7/10
Chief’s Son Batch 1 That Boutique-y Whisky Company Review
The Chief’s Son distillery, located on the Mornington Peninsula, near Melbourne, Victoria, was founded by husband and wife, Stuart and Naomi McIntosh in 2016 after an inspiring trip to Scotland. This really is a micro-distillery – with an annual capacity of just 5000 litres! This Chief’s Son batch 1 from Boutique-y is a 5-Year-Old single malt whisky, that’s been matured in an ex-Sherry (Australian Apera) cask. The cask gave 462 bottles (still 50 cl as usual) filled at 52.1% ABV. Compared to some other releases from this Return to Oz series, the price is ‘contained’: expect to pay from £131 in the UK and €139 in Germany.
Colour:
Auburn
Nose:
Neat: The nose presents notes of dates, sultanas, cherries, with subtle hints of light wood, apricot, and pear drops.
With water: Whilst traces of wood remain, the nose becomes significantly muted.
Palate:
Neat: The palate unfolds with flavours of red fruits, caramel, and sultanas, accompanied by subtle wood notes. Spices emerge, offering a gentle heat with hints of pepper and chili, followed by nuances of dark chocolate and an oily mouthfeel. A touch of light smoke lingers in the background.
With water: The addition of water enhances the woodiness, revealing notes of wood varnish and orange zest, along with a subtle hint of sandalwood.
Finish:
The finish lingers with notes of wood char, accompanied by flavours of figs, sultanas, and a hint of cough syrup.
Comments:
While slightly heavy on the wood, this whisky remains quite flavourful and enjoyable. It’s disappointing that the nose becomes muted with the addition of water, but the overall quality is still commendable. If the nose had been a bit more expressive (with less wood, though), it could have earned a higher rating, but we’ll settle for a solid 6.5.
Rating: 6.5/10
Fleurieu Batch 2 That Boutique-y Whisky Company Review
Located approximately an hour south of Adelaide, Fleurieu distillery is managed by the husband and wife duo Gareth & Angela Andrews. They utilise an eight-day fermentation process with brewer’s yeast. Notably, their casks bear names from either extended family members or characters from famous films. Batch 2, the second Fleurieu release bottled by Boutique-y, is a peated malt aged in an ex-Apera cask named ‘Mary Ann Watkins’. Bottled at a natural cask strength of 65% ABV by Boutique-y, this 3-year-old whisky yielded 428 bottles (500 ml ones as usual). It remains available in the UK (from £136) and Germany (from €139).
Colour:
Tawny.
Nose:
Neat: Despite its high 65% ABV, the initial nose is unexpectedly gentle, with no harsh burning sensation. Delicate aromas of lightly smoked fudge, mirabelle plums, sultanas, and subtle hints of varnish and glue emerge.
With water: There’s a hint of wood char, accompanied by notes of lychee.
Palate:
Neat: The palate offers a surprisingly soft arrival, belying its high ABV. It goes down effortlessly, revealing notes of sandalwood, varnished oak, plums, sultanas, and a medley of spices including pepper, cinnamon, and allspice. Subtle hints of dark chocolate and caramel extract add depth.
With water: Despite a slight increase in alcohol heat, the whisky remains remarkably smooth. Flavours of Jaffa cakes also emerge.
Finish:
The finish is characterised by notes of caramel and wood, accompanied by lingering spices. A pleasant peppery and slightly salty heat lingers at the back of the tongue.
Comments:
This whisky proves to be quite intriguing. Despite being only 3 years old, it boasts a remarkable flavour, and the alcohol is impressively well integrated. Surprisingly, it’s quite easy to sip at 65% ABV! However, the price may give pause considering the age and bottle size, but once again, it’s worth considering the context of this being a very small distillery with limited production.
Rating: 7/10
Sullivans Cove Batch 1 That-Boutique-y Brandy Company Review
In 1990, the dynamic entrepreneur Bill Lark made a significant impact by overturning a law from 1838 that prohibited whisky production in Tasmania. This led to the establishment of the Lark Distillery in 1992, marking the resurgence of whisky distillation in the region. In 1994, Sullivans Cove emerged onto the scene, initially facing challenges until Patrick Maguire took charge in 1999, revitalising operations. By 2004, the distillery relocated to Cambridge, near Hobart, close to the Cascade Brewery, where barley from the island’s northern fields is malted, imparting an oily and floral character to the whiskies. Sullivans Cove’s American Oak expression was awarded the best single malt (outside Scotland) at the 2007 World Whiskies Awards in London. Fast forward to 2014, where cask number HH0525 earned global recognition as the best single malt in the world, forever associating Tasmanian whisky with this esteemed accolade.
For our final tasting, we veer away from whisky and delve into an Australian brandy hailing from Sullivans Cove. This 9-year-old Sullivans Cove Brandy is crafted from a blend of Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot grapes, aged for nine years in the distinctive Tasmanian climate and an American Oak ex-Tawny cask. Bottled at its natural cask strength of 66.5% ABV, with only 198 bottles produced, it remains available in the UK from £160.
Colour:
Auburn
Nose:
Neat: Immediately, winey notes dominate the nose, accompanied by a hint of sharpness from the high ABV, though surprisingly, like with the Fleurieu, it is way more approachable than expected from that ABV. Aromatic wood, sultanas, plums, and a touch of spices such as clove and baking spices blend harmoniously, along with a subtle menthol note.
With water: The addition of water brings out more pronounced wood tones and a hint of rancio, accompanied by a note of dusty leather.
Palate:
Neat: The palate reveals the ABV more prominently, yet it remains surprisingly manageable. Initial notes of caramel and toffee give way to a burst of spices including clove, nutmeg, pepper, and chili, accompanied by rich oak and hints of dark chocolate.
With water: A subtle citrusy sourness emerges, accompanied by a notable reduction in heat with just a few drops of water, resulting in a more balanced and enjoyable experience.
Finish:
The finish is characterised by the lingering flavours from the palate, accompanied by a pleasant warmth in the throat.
Comments:
This brandy is truly excellent. The alcohol is seamlessly integrated and doesn’t impart any burning sensation, although it’s more perceptible compared to the Fleurieu. The nose and palate are delightful, especially with a few drops of water added (though I’m uncertain about the exact ABV after the dilution – I added approximately 5 small drops to about 15 ml remaining in my glass). Once again, the price may cause some hesitation, but considering the age, ABV, and taste, it offers better value compared to some of the whiskies reviewed earlier. It’s important to remember that these distilleries are small-scale operations and cannot compete with the cost structures of larger Scottish distilleries.
Rating: 7.5/10
Cheers Dave! Bottle pictures lifted from Whiskybase and Boutique-y website.
