It’s been a while since we last reviewed some malternatives on More Drams, so let’s dive into the malternative samples box and explore an Armagnac and a… not-Armagnac Swell de Spirits. We have a ‘classic’ Bas-Armagnac 1976 from Domaine de Jouatmaou, and a 2002 Domaine de Baraillon that, probably because of its finish in an ex-Long Pond rum cask previously used for Calvados, can no longer be called Armagnac. This should be interesting!
Domaine de Jouatmaou 1976 Bas-Armagnac Swell de Spirits Flash Back #4 (2022) Review
We start with a Domaine de Jouatmaou Bas-Armagnac, distilled from a blend of 50% Baco and 50% Folle Blanche grapes in 1976. Swell de Spirits aged this Armagnac in French oak from Gascony and bottled it in April 2022 as the fourth release in their Flash Back series. They bottled it at cask strength, with a natural reduction to 42.6% ABV, and without chill filtration or added color. The cask yielded just sixty 500 ml bottles, all of which have sold out.
Colour:
Tawny.
Nose:
Neat: Rich aromas of lacquered exotic woods and spices, predominantly nutmeg, mingle with notes of shoe polish and roasted almonds. Subtle hints of plums and dried apricots emerge, complemented by a cake filled with candied fruits. Pine resin and needles add a fresh layer, while aeration unveils stewed tropical fruits like banana and passion fruit, along with oranges, liquorice root, and a touch of dried herbs.
Palate:
Neat: The initial taste is light with a delicate mouthfeel. Flavors of wood and tea leaves, particularly herbal tea, unfold, accompanied by very dark chocolate and floral tea notes. The mouthfeel gradually thickens, introducing spices, rosewater, and more floral flavors.
Finish:
A warm, lightly spicy finish lingers, characterised by woody undertones and a medley of herbal and floral teas.
Comments:
This Domaine de Jouatmaou boasts a superb nose that transitions from classic Armagnac aromas to fresher, brighter fruity and herbaceous notes upon aeration. However, despite the promising nose, the palate initially disappoints with a bitter and thin profile, though it improves mid-palate. Overall, it’s quite a good Armagnac, but unfortunately, it has sold out, even for those who might appreciate its bitterness.
Rating: 6.5/10
Domaine de Baraillon Eau-De-Vie de Raisin 2002 Swell de Spirits On Tour Series #4 (2024) Review
Domaine de Baraillon, an Armagnac producer, distilled this spirit in 2002, from Baco, Folle Blanche, and Ugni Blanc grapes. They finished this Armagnac in a Long Pond 2007 Jamaican rum cask, which had previously held 2003 Calvados Garnier for a month, likely to soften its profile. This distinctive finishing process or the type of oak used led to labelling the spirit as ‘eau-de-vie de raisin’ instead of Armagnac. In English, this could be referred to as ‘grape eau-de-vie’. In French, a regular grape is called ‘raisin’, while the English word ‘raisin’ translates to ‘raisin sec’, which literally means ‘dry grape’.
Swell de Spirits bottled this spirit at 49.9% ABV, though they don’t mention this is cask strength on the label, suggesting they may have reduced it before bottling. They bottled it without chill filtration or added colouring, with an outturn of 165 bottles, each 500 ml, typical of Swell de Spirits. They released it for the German Armagnac Festival 2024, and it is mostly sold out but still available on Armagnac.de for just under €100 per bottle.
Colour:
Burnished
Nose:
Neat: Classic woody Armagnac notes are present, intertwined with banana and raisins (dried grape). There are hints of Crêpe-Suzette flambéed with triple sec, red apples, and a subtle touch of rubber.
Palate:
Neat: The mouthfeel is syrupy, with a sweet arrival followed by spicy notes. Flavours of brown sugar, concentrated salted caramel, pepper, and eucalyptus emerge, followed by apples, bananas, nutmeg, milk chocolate, and pain aux raisins (which uses… dried grapes) pastry.
Finish:
A pronounced pinch of pepper and pain aux raisins, complemented by wood and bitter herbal tea.
Comments:
This is a fun and unique experience, though I can’t help but wonder how the Domaine de Baraillon Bas-Armagnac would have tasted without this unusual finish. I don’t think I’ve ever tasted a Long Pond rum, so I cannot say which influence it provided. Overall, it’s very nice. I initially rated it 7/10, but the bitter notes in the finish led me to dock half a point.