WhistlePig Distillery produces rye whiskey on a 500-acre farm in Shoreham, Vermont. Raj Bhakta founded the company in 2007, and in 2015, WhistlePig introduced its first major release, a 10-year-aged rye whiskey (a sourced Canadian rye whiskey). The distillery helped revive interest in rye whiskey in the American market. It operates out of a converted barn and uses two 750-gallon copper pot stills. The farm grows rye grain along with other crops, and the company manages its own barrels and other production inputs. This vertical approach allows WhistlePig to control the raw materials and maturation process. Initially, the brand sourced a significant portion of its whiskey from Canada, with master distiller Dave Pickerell assisting in developing the early offerings. Currently, the in-house team manages distillation and blending. Today, we review two sourced whiskeys and one made in-house: the WhistlePig 10-year-old, 12-year-old, and Farmstock Rye Beyond Bond.
WhistlePig 10-year-old Small Batch Rye (2021) Review
WhistlePig 10-year-old is a sourced 10-year-old Canadian rye whiskey matured in virgin oak and finished in ex-bourbon casks. It’s bottled at 50% ABV; there’s no indication regarding chill filtration or added colour. Available from €55 in Germany, £70 in the UK, and CAD90 in Canada.
Colour:
Amontillado sherry.
Nose:
Neat: The aroma presents sweeter than one might expect, and somewhat cloying. It offers some rye notes but leans closer to bourbon than classic rye. There are hints of engine oil, corn syrup, damp fallen leaves, and a touch of cardboard.
With water: Green banana peel and banana tree leaves emerge, and fortunately, the nose becomes less cloying and sweet. After some time, dry rye, corn dust, and burnt wood notes appear.
Palate:
Neat: Initial sweetness quickly gives way to alcohol heat and spiciness, followed by citrus fruits. The palate then turns rough and bitter, resembling a raw and sharp grain spirit. It proves challenging to describe, but the experience falls short. Overly charred wood and very burnt caramel, maybe.
With water: Sweetness initiates the experience again, but this time citrus notes precede the spices. However, a chemical grain alcohol taste persists, which remains unpleasant.
Finish:
Fortunately short, as the palate is really not good. Corn syrup and that burnt caramel are still noticeable.
Comments:
Well, this does not start well. The nose does not impress, as it proves too sweet to the point of being cloying, but then things take a turn for the worse with the palate, which is properly disgusting with chemical, raw, and sharp alcohol. I poured the rest of my glass down the sink; it really is not good at all.
Rating: 2/10*
WhistlePig 12-year-old Old World Rye (2021) Review
Next, we have a 12-year-old WhistlePig called ’Old World Rye’. The ‘old world’ refers to the influence of the casks used to finish this rye whiskey, as WhistlePig finished it in 63% Madeira casks, 30% Sauternes casks, and 7% Port casks. They bottled it at just 43% ABV but do not indicate whether it is chill-filtered or has natural colour. The price jumps quite a bit from the 10-year-old, as this one costs from €100 in Germany, about €120 in the rest of Europe, from £113 in the UK and CAD160 in Canada.
Colour:
Amontillado sherry.
Nose:
Neat: You can clearly notice the wine casks used for the finish, as a distinct vinous character permeates the nose. It presents winey fruits with plums, red berries, and prunes, accompanied by a touch of spice (cinnamon), some wood, and perhaps a hint of light citrus notes as well.
Palate:
Neat: The arrival offers fruity notes of citrus fruits and a flavour reminiscent of that apple, blackcurrant, and raspberry-flavoured sweet drink (Oasis). Unfortunately, the chemical alcohol that marred the WhistlePig 10-year-old also makes an appearance here, though with slightly less intensity. Nonetheless, it remains prominent enough to discourage further sipping.
Finish:
Bitter wood and that chemical flavour unfortunately linger for an excessively long duration.
Comments:
The WhistlePig 12-year-old shows a slight improvement over the 10-year-old, but it still falls short of being an enjoyable whisky. Given its significant flaws, one would be wise to steer clear of this particular expression. Further commentary seems unnecessary, as the overall ‘experience’ remains really disappointing.
Rating: 3/10*
WhistlePig Farmstock Rye Beyond Bonded (2023) Review
To conclude this session, we turn to the WhistlePig Farmstock Rye Beyond Bonded. This single cask expression comprises 100% Brasseto rye, aged for a little over 4.5 years in a lightly charred barrel. Unlike the 10- and 12-year-old expressions, WhistlePig distilled this one in-house, rather than sourcing the whiskey. It appears that LAGO GWS still lists it for USD 150, although it seems to be sold out elsewhere.
Colour:
Chestnut.
Nose:
Neat: The nose presents a far more intense and classic rye character than the first two expressions, fortunately. Apple caramel, roasted and tinned corn, and dry hay, evoking the atmosphere of a farmyard.
With water: The addition of water brings little change, perhaps a touch more apple caramel.
Palate:
Neat: This expression ventures into more typical rye territory on the palate as well, thankfully. It offers smoky undertones, freshly toasted grain, and a hint of malted rye. Notes of green grass and black pepper emerge, accompanied by subtle tobacco and oak. Mercifully, the chemical alcohol note from the previous expressions is absent. Tangy notes and a hint of fermented milk.
With water: Apple caramel makes an appearance on the palate now, along with toasted wood, dried herbs, and a tangy green apple peel flavour.
Finish:
The finish is short and sweet, with wood and corn syrup notes, accompanied by cinnamon, rye, and sweetened lemonade.
Comments:
Well, the WhistlePig Farmstock Rye Beyond Bonded saves the day, as this one, luckily, proves drinkable. It does not impress greatly, and I will not reach for the rest of my sample anytime soon. However, unlike the two blended ryes, it did not compel me to empty my glass into the sink and rinse it immediately. As far as I understand, WhistlePig produced this one using their own spirit, distilled from their own rye, whereas the two age-statement blends were sourced whiskies.
Rating: 5/10
*: The reviews I’ve found do not seem to show such problematic tasting notes, so I cannot help but wonder if my miniature bottles were tinted, but they were official glass miniatures bottled in 2021, sealed and not showing any hint of evaporation. Dramface has reviewed the 10-year-old if you want another opinion.
Sample and miniatures provided by WhistlePig. Bottle pictures courtesy of Whiskybase.