We continue our cognac journey with the tenth dram from our Cognac-Expert Advent Calendar: a Monnet XXO Cognac. Monnet Cognac was founded in 1838 by Jean-Gabriel Monnet. The company operates from facilities in Cognac, where it was among the first to centralise the entire production process. Its bottles feature a salamander emblem, originally associated with King Francis I. The Monnet Estate covers 23 hectares of clay-limestone soil (groies) in the Fins Bois region. But let’s crack on to the tasting, shall we?
I Don’t Understand Tht Price of Cognac
The world of cognac is filled with layers of prestige, heritage, and craftsmanship, but it is also riddled with surprising price disparities that often defy conventional logic. The disparity is rooted in factors such as branding, age statements, and production scale, but these are not always transparent to the consumer. For example, some small producers offer exquisite, limited-edition cognacs that rival or exceed the quality of high-end bottles from major brands, yet they are priced significantly lower. Conversely, cognacs from luxury houses often command a premium based on name recognition and marketing rather than intrinsic quality.
Age is one of the most misunderstood and inconsistently valued factors in cognac pricing. A 30-year-old cognac from an artisan distiller might cost a fraction of a similarly aged cognac from a well-known brand like Hennessy or Rémy Martin, even if the former offers a more nuanced flavour profile. This is partly because big names invest heavily in global advertising, elevating their perceived value regardless of the liquid inside the bottle. Moreover, age statements are not always straightforward; blends can include small quantities of older eaux-de-vie to qualify for a higher age classification, leading consumers to pay more for a product that doesn’t entirely match their expectations.
The disparity is further fuelled by regional influences and scarcity. Cognac from the Borderies, for instance, is sometimes underappreciated compared to the more famous Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne regions, despite offering unique floral and nutty characteristics. While certain Borderies producers deliver exceptional quality, their bottles often remain more affordable simply because they lack the market clout of more prominent appellations. This undervaluation means savvy enthusiasts can find hidden gems at a fraction of the cost of mainstream luxury options.
Ultimately, the lack of logic in cognac pricing reflects a tension between art and commerce. The artistry behind crafting cognac – a process that requires decades of patience and expertise – is often overshadowed by commercial pressures and brand dominance. For consumers, this creates both frustration and opportunity: frustration when inflated prices obscure true quality, but opportunity when they uncover under-the-radar treasures that offer remarkable value for money.
So, where will this Monnet XXO Cognac land? Let’s find out.
Monnet XXO Cognac Review
As most of the cognacs we’ve tried so far, Monnet XXO is distilled from Ugni Blanc grapes, with the lees, in a 25 hectolitres still. The eaux-de-vie used for this blend are aged from 14 to a larger but undisclosed number of years in Tonnellerie de Jarnac and Allary casks, using medium grain and toast, in a dry cellar. As far as I know, the oldest cognac in their chai dates back to 1987, so don’t expect eaux-de-vie older than that in this Monnet XXO. It’s also a multi-cru blend, with eaux-de-vie coming from Grande and Petite Champagne and Fins Bois. It’s bottled at 40% ABV without any additive, and it’s priced from €260 to €400 depending on shops and offers.
Colour:
Mahogany.
Nose:
Neat: The nose opens with warm spices, caramel, wood, gingerbread spread with unsalted butter, ginger, and the rich aroma of a cedar cigar box and mahogany. As it rests in the glass, new layers emerge – deeper caramel, tobacco, raisins, chocolate, and a subtle hint of menthol.
Palate:
Neat: Notes of peppery caramel, buttered gingerbread, oak, and cedar take the lead, accompanied by a delicate hint of citrusy sourness with grapefruit and lime. Clove, cinnamon, chocolate, and hazelnuts. The mouthfeel is light but remains pleasant, avoiding being too thin.
Finish:
Finish: Medium in length, featuring notes of raisins, brown sugar, sandalwood, and milk chocolate, with a subtle dryness lingering on the sides of the tongue.
Comments:
The Monnet X X O Cognac is excellent, showcasing elegant ‘dry’ aromas and flavours. While it lacks the fruity notes I typically enjoy and has a thinner mouthfeel than ideal, it remains a delightful and dangerously sippable cognac. However, its stunning quality might be tempered by the steep price, which falls on the frustratingly expensive side.
