Coldorak's whisky blog.
After the recently reviewed Vallein Tercinier bottled by Malternative Belgium, we compare two Fins Bois cognacs from this well-known merchant. We’ll review an official single cask against one selected by Cognac Sponge, the cognac branch of Whisky Sponge and Decadent Drinks. Specifically, we’ll review the Vallein Tercinier Lot 96 and N.88 Cognac Sponge, both single casks from the Fins Bois cru.
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Today we explore five Prunier cask strength vintage cognacs, moving from Fins Bois to Borderies to Petite Champagne, with vintages ranging from 1978 to 1994 harvests.
Early last year, a good friend introduced me to the Prunier Cognac house when he shared the last of his 1979 Prunier cognac, bottled by The Whisky Jury, during an SMWS tasting in Paris on my birthday. A few days later, back home near Rennes, I tried the cognac and was amazed by its quality, bursting with tropical fruits. I spent days searching the Internet for another bottle but unfortunately found none. Fast forward to December 2024, and I discovered a Prunier Horizon in my Cognac-Expert Advent Calendar. Although not as tropical, it was equally stunning with vibrant fruitiness.
When I planned a trip to Cognac in February to visit distilleries and merchants, I made sure to include Prunier. Though they don’t typically welcome visitors, I arranged to spend an afternoon with Alice Burnez as an on-trade visitor, thanks to my own company, Whisky Sans Souci. Alice gave me a wonderful tour, explaining the history of their house and showing me their cellars and the process of hand-waxing and sealing bottles with a wire cage and painted lead seals.
Alice and her sister Claire prepared a large lineup of bottles for me to try. As we worked through the samples, I couldn’t stay longer, so they kindly provided me with samples from the rest of the lineup to review later with a fresh palate. I left Prunier with five cask strength vintage cognac samples (and purchased a stunning bottle of a vintage 1979 and some branded glasses). Now, it’s time to review them!
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This week, we return to Cognac to review something entirely new – a 17-year-old Fins Bois Cognac that Godet hasn’t released yet: the Godet Single Cask Spring 2025 Edition. Back in December 2024, we sampled a Godet 43-year-old single cask Cognac (their Fall 2024 edition) as part of our Cognac-Expert Advent Calendar, and we thoroughly enjoyed it. Now, we’re excited to explore a younger offering from this esteemed Cognac house with their Godet Single Cask Spring 2025 Edition.
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It’s been a while since we last reviewed some malternatives on More Drams, so let’s dive into the malternative samples box and explore an Armagnac and a… not-Armagnac Swell de Spirits. We have a ‘classic’ Bas-Armagnac 1976 from Domaine de Jouatmaou, and a 2002 Domaine de Baraillon that, probably because of its finish in an ex-Long Pond rum cask previously used for Calvados, can no longer be called Armagnac. This should be interesting!
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Malternative Belgium is a company founded by Pieter Knapen and Ysatis Thijs, dedicated to cognac. Established in 2020 as an independent bottler, Malternative Belgium combines passion and time to select and bottle cognacs. The company operates both an online business and an ‘experience store’ in Hasselt, where visitors can taste and learn about cognac in a cosy environment. The journey of Malternative Belgium began in 2009 with an interest in spirits, leading to their involvement as distributors for a reputable cognac brand in 2016. However, their vision extended beyond mere distribution; they aimed to share the rich stories and experiences that cognac offers. Through their network of small, family-owned producers in the cognac region, they source high-quality spirits (Cognacs first, but also now Calvados) under their brand. We review today three ‘old’ cognacs from Malternative Belgium, but we’ll review more recent ones in the coming weeks.
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Calvados is a brandy from the Normandy region of France, crafted from apples and sometimes pears. The spirit dates back to 1553, when the first known Norman distillation occurred. About 50 years later, the guild for cider distillation was created. Calvados got its protected name in 1942. The production of Calvados begins in the orchard, where cider apples, known for their richness in tannins, are harvested. Unlike regular apples, cider fruits are small. There are roughly 300 varieties of apples that Calvados producers can use. After harvest, the apples are mashed and pressed to extract the juice, which is then fermented into cider. This cider is then distilled to separate the alcohol from the water. Depending on the appellation, either a pot still or a column still is used for distillation. The resulting eau-de-vie is then aged in oak casks for a minimum of two years before being sold as Calvados. We review two Calvados from Swell de Spirits, a now well-known French independent bottler.
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A century. That’s the age of this Grande Champagne cognac. A century is a period of 100 years, a significant unit of time that allows us to reflect on historical, cultural, and scientific advancements. The term comes from the Latin word centum, meaning ‘hundred’. Centuries are often used to measure the progress of civilisations, identify eras, and study the impact of human activity on the world. For instance, the 20th century (1901–2000) and the 21st century (2001-present) have been marked by extraordinary changes and developments, shaping the modern era. Let’s reflect quickly on what has happened since 1924, when this Famille Cabanne Lot 24 Cognac was distilled, three generations ago.
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For our final dram – already unfortunately – in our Cognac-Expert Advent Calendar, we have a François Voyer Hors d’Âge Cognac, from the Grande Champagne cru. The Chauchet-Voyer family has cultivated their vineyard since the French Revolution in the villages of Verrières and Ambleville, in the Grande Champagne region, renowned for Cognac production. In the late 19th century, Paul André was among the few winemakers distilling their own harvest rather than selling it, leaving behind a legacy that includes numerous old eaux-de-vie and a Paradise filled with 1er cru de Cognac eaux-de-vie.
François Voyer Cognac is made exclusively from Grande Champagne grapes, with the family vineyard of 8 hectares, distilling and bottling in-house to ensure quality and preserve tradition. Their expertise has been passed down for five generations since 1870. Dedicated to sustainable farming, François Voyer was one of the first estates to earn the Haute Valeur Environnementale (HVE) certification, awarded by the BNIC after a thorough audit.
Their family estate is shared between Grande Champagne’s 1st Cru of Cognac and Fins Bois Cru, and the estate has been entrusted to its current cellar master, Pierre Vaudon, and the winemaking embodied by Anne-Marie Vaudon, to continue its legacy for years to come.
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The penultimate cognac in our Cognac-Expert Advent Calendar is a 30-year-old Hardy Noces de Perle Cognac. Cognac Hardy, established in 1863 by British-born Anthony Hardy, is a testament to passion and resilience in the cognac world. After relocating to France and embracing French culture – adopting the name Antoine and the rooster as his emblem – Hardy earned a stellar reputation for his dedication to Fine Champagne cognac, evidenced by awards such as the 1869 Diploma of Excellence at the Amsterdam Exhibition. Despite challenges like the devastating phylloxera outbreak in the late 19th century, Hardy preserved sufficient reserves to rebuild and expand globally. Over generations, leadership passed through family hands, with each era bringing innovation and market growth. Notable milestones include the invention of ‘Anniversary’ cognacs in 1960, marked by the creation of iconic decanters like Noces de Perle (30 years) and Noces d’Albâtre (75 years). Under Jacques Hardy’s leadership, the company extended its reach to new continents. He retired in 1999, and the company name changed from A. Hardy et Cie to Cognac Hardy.
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For the twenty-second and antepenultimate dram from our Cognac-Expert Advent Calendar, we have a 50-year-old Domaine La Prenellerie Hors d’Âge Cognac, from the Bons Bois cru. At the Domaine de la Prenellerie, winemaking has been a family tradition for generations. In 1966, Guy Billonneau took over his grandmother’s farm in Épargnes, which, at the time, combined crop farming and livestock. Seeing the potential of the land near the Estuary, he shifted entirely to viticulture. He learned the craft from his father, Robert Billonneau, who was also a winegrower. Over nearly four decades, Guy focused on producing Cognac and Pineau.
In 2003, his son, Frédéric Billonneau, who was working in import/export, decided to produce wine from a small plot of Merlot vines. Using traditional methods, including hand harvesting, his initial project grew into a larger venture. Frédéric eventually took over the family estate, expanding its production to include red, rosé, and white wines in addition to Cognac and Pineau.
In 2020, the estate received ‘Haute Valeur Environnementale’ certification, reflecting its efforts in biodiversity conservation, fertilisation management, and water use practices.
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