We begin the second half of our Cognac-Expert Advent Calendar with a Mauxion Borderies Lot 45 Cognac. The Mauxion family traces its origins back to 1575, when Pierre Mauxion was born in the village of Houlette. Over thirteen generations, the family has remained rooted in the same estate. In 1743, Antoine Mauxion became the first family member to produce eaux-de-vie, beginning a tradition that has been carried forward by ten successive generations. Today, Mauxion Selection continues this legacy, maintaining traditional methods in vineyard care and the crafting of high-quality eaux-de-vie.
Mauxion Selection stands out by offering a range of single-cru expressions in various sizes. All their cognacs are sourced exclusively from the renowned terroirs of Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, and Fins Bois. To preserve the integrity and character of their eaux-de-vie, Mauxion Selection bottles its cognacs at cask strength, without blending or reduction. This approach allows the spirits to retain their natural complexity and depth, showcasing the unique qualities of each vintage and terroir.
What is ‘Lot’ in Cognac
In the Cognac industry, the term “Lot” is commonly used to provide an unofficial indication of a cognac’s vintage or age, because there is no paperwork justifying the traceability required by the governing body to display an official vintage. While the official regulations governing Cognac production focus on broad age categories (such as VS, VSOP, and XO), the use of a lot number allows producers to offer more specific information about the origin or age of their spirits without contravening these rules.
A lot number often refers to the year the cognac was distilled, particularly in cases where the blend primarily comes from a single harvest. For example, “Lot 90” would typically signify that the majority of the eau-de-vie used in that cognac was distilled in 1990 or that the grapes were harvested in 1990. However, it is not a legally recognised vintage designation, and the lot system operates outside the strict framework of AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) regulations.
In some cases, the lot number can also indicate a specific blend or batch, highlighting a unique production process or a release with consistent characteristics. For consumers, it serves as a valuable marker for identifying particular bottlings or tracking the approximate age of the cognac.
Because the term “Lot” is not officially standardised, its interpretation may vary among producers. It’s often seen as a way for independent or smaller houses to differentiate their products and provide transparency, especially when the cognac’s story revolves around a specific harvest or long-term ageing. For collectors and connoisseurs, lot numbers can add a layer of intrigue, offering insight into the cognac’s history and allowing them to explore specific profiles tied to a particular year or batch.
Mauxion Borderies Lot 45 Cognac Review
The Mauxion Borderies Lot 45 Cognac has been aged for over 45 years in the humid, closely guarded cellars of the Mauxion family. I’ve mentioned above that ‘Lot’ can be used to unofficially display a vintage, but here it is used to mention this cognac is 45 years old. This Cognac is a pure Borderies expression, made exclusively from Ugni Blanc grapes, and distilled with lees in a small 9-hectolitre alambic still, contributing to its rich, full-bodied profile. Bottled at cask strength (54% ABV), this Cognac is unblended, preserving the pure essence of the distillation.
Colour:
Auburn.
Nose:
Neat: Lovely intensity – you can immediately tell it’s cask strength! The nose bursts with dried fruit, such as apricots, dates, figs, and raisins, combined with caramel, honey, and a pleasant rancio. Notes of nutmeg, beeswax, and soft wood tannins, whilst roasted hazelnuts, almonds, and cracked walnuts bring a warm, nutty richness.
With water: Notes of pine wood, sultanas, cigar tobacco leaves, and earthy humus emerge.
Palate:
Neat: The palate delivers a wonderfully chewy mouthfeel – cask strength and no chill filtration make all the difference! Rich notes of dark caramel and a generous dose of black pepper provide a gentle heat, balanced by candy-like liquorice rolls, well-integrated wood spices, and tannins. Hints of nutmeg, dried-out orange marmalade, dark chocolate, and a return of liquorice are joined by menthol and espresso crema.
With water: The palate shifts to a fruitier side, revealing vibrant notes of kumquat, roasted pineapple, green apples, and grapefruit, accented by slices of candied ginger for a zesty touch.
Finish:
Finish: A fascinating mix of menthol cigarettes, liquorice, and chocolate, paired with bright citrus notes of lime and orange. Soft tannins introduce a light astringency, complemented by wood wax and a refreshing citrusy sourness that adds a crisp, fresh ending.
Comments:
Now we’re talking! This Mauxion Lot 45 Borderies Cognac is what I want in a cognac: fruits, rancio, not too much wood, and cask strength, with a good mouthfeel! They got everything right, it’s intense, it’s delicious and you can play around with a few drops of water without ruining it but even enhancing it (yes, it can feel as if I’m saying the contrary of ‘go cask strength’, but going cask strength leaves you that margin to play around and enjoy the mouthfeel). Absolutely no cheap sweetness either, excellent cognac. A shame it’s that expensive, however.
