Despite having friends who are huge fans of Ledaig, the peated whisky from Tobermory Distillery, it’s never been something I’ve actively sought out. The few Ledaig expressions I’ve tried so far have failed to win me over. I’ve revisited the Ledaig 10 and 18 a few times, but neither has been to my taste. However, as a whisky geek, I believe in exploring distilleries I don’t naturally gravitate toward. It’s important to gain a fuller perspective of what they can offer and see if they might surprise me. So, when friends offered me 10 centilitres of an unpeated Ledaig bottled by Swell de Spirits and suggested splitting a sample of the highly regarded Ledaig 1972, I couldn’t resist. Despite my bias against Ledaig, the opportunity to explore something so unique and revered was too tempting to pass up. With that in mind, I’m putting these two whiskies head-to-head: a 1994 unpeated Ledaig from Swell de Spirits versus a 42-year-old Ledaig 1972. Let’s see if either of them has what it takes to change my opinion and perhaps even make me a believer.
Giving Another Chance
Sometimes, exploring whiskies from distilleries you don’t typically enjoy can feel like stepping out of your comfort zone. It might be the house style, a particular flavour profile, or even previous experiences that have turned you away, but giving a distillery another chance can be surprisingly rewarding. It’s easy to stick to what you know you like – reliable favourites that consistently hit the mark – but whisky, after all, is about discovery.
When revisiting a less favoured distillery, it’s worth considering expressions that deviate from their standard lineup. Perhaps a single cask bottling, an older vintage, or a release matured in an unusual cask type could highlight characteristics you’ve never noticed before. Independent bottlings, in particular, are great for this. They often strip away some of the distillery’s ‘house’ influence (Jura, I’m looking at you), offering fresh perspectives on the spirit itself. It’s also possible that your palate has evolved over time, and a whisky you might not have enjoyed five years ago could now hold some appeal.
Another factor to consider is the context in which you’re tasting. A shared dram during a tasting session with friends or at a whisky festival might completely change your perspective. There’s something about the energy of a room filled with enthusiasts or the insights of an expert guide that can enhance appreciation. Even approaching the dram with an open mind, ready to identify the parts you like – even if they’re buried under flavours you don’t – can turn the experience into a fun challenge rather than a chore.
Ultimately, even if you don’t find a whisky you love, the journey itself can teach you something new. It might reinforce your preferences, help refine your palate, or simply broaden your appreciation of the incredible diversity within the whisky world. And who knows? You might just stumble across an expression that changes your opinion entirely. Have you had a recent experience like this, or is there a distillery you’re tempted to revisit this year?
Unpeated Ledaig 1994 Private Garden Swell de Spirits Review
This Ledaig was distilled at Tobermory in 1994 using unpeated malt but with the Ledaig production settings (fermentation time, distillation cuts, etc.). It spent 29 years maturing in a first-fill Oloroso sherry hogshead (#381,052) before being bottled by Swell de Spirits in 2023. The release yielded 357 bottles, each at 500 ml, as is customary for Swell de Spirits, and was bottled at its natural cask strength of 55.8% ABV. It is still available in France, priced from €450.
Colour:
Mahogany.
Nose:
Neat: Aromas of dried figs and menthol cigarettes lead the way, followed by notes of red fruits like raspberries and pomegranate. There’s a layer of salted caramel, complemented by a touch of spices, unlit pipe tobacco, and the nostalgic scent of dusty books.
With water: Delicate hints of chocolate emerge, alongside intensified pomegranate and creamy custard. A subtle whiff of sandalwood adds an elegant, woody dimension.
Palate:
Neat: A surprisingly citrusy arrival with a velvety mouthfeel. Grapefruit and lime take the lead, followed by orange marmalade and salted caramel, all complemented by a beautiful note of eucalyptus reminiscent of an old cognac. Polished old wood and a generous pinch of cracked black pepper add depth, before transitioning to raspberry jam, old leather armchairs, and dark chocolate. With each sip, it evolves intriguingly, shifting from hints of passion fruit to an almost smoky character – constantly surprising and dynamic.
With water: The spice ramps up with more black pepper and a touch of chili heat. Raisins coated in melted dark chocolate emerge, along with a stunning herbaceous freshness.
Finish:
Notes of polished old wood and a rancio character reminiscent of aged Grande Champagne cognac. Red berry jam lingers delicately, for a medium-length conclusion.
Comments:
What a stunning whisky. This feels like a beautifully aged sherry-matured malt, with the palate being particularly exceptional. The Unpeated Ledaig 1994 Private Garden from Swell de Spirits is a perfect example of why exploring whiskies from distilleries you don’t typically favour can lead to unexpected surprises and even shift your perspective. But this was unpeated Ledaig – now it’s time to tackle the real deal.
Rating: 8.5/10
Ledaig 1972 Dùsgadh Review
This Ledaig Dùsgadh was distilled at Tobermory in 1972 using peated malt and bottled in 2014 after 42 years of maturation. Before bottling, it underwent an Oloroso sherry cask finish and was released at 46.7% ABV, with an outturn of just 500 bottles. The name Dùsgadh, meaning ‘awake’ in Scots Gaelic, symbolises the whisky’s ‘awakening’ after its 42-year slumber in the cask. Of course, this is purely marketing – whisky doesn’t truly sleep in the cask; it evolves over time.
A limited number of bottles can still be found at select retailers in the US and Europe, but they come at a steep price: $4,100 (pre-tax) in the US and around €5,000 in Europe. That said, with a recommended retail price of €4,700 at release, the current pricing hasn’t skyrocketed over the past decade. And for that price, at least you’re getting the full 700 ml!
Colour:
Burnt umber.
Nose:
Neat: Smoked dates lead the way, accompanied by subtle hints of sulphur in the best possible sense. The familiar farmy aromas typical of Ledaig are present but refined and well integrated. Notes of old leather, turpentine, and camphor add memories of old times, whilst fresh tar and petrichor evoke a sense of earthy freshness. Delicate wisps of smoke intertwine with nutty tones of hazelnuts and cracked walnuts, complete with their shells, and a touch of almost crystallised acacia honey provides a gentle sweetness.
Palate:
Neat: A symphony of homemade red fruit jams, including strawberry jam with a touch of chili heat and a pinch of pepper, creates a vibrant opening. Sesame oil and rich rancio notes meld with a drizzle of balsamic vinegar, leading into layers of tobacco, juicy plums, and raisins. Dark chocolate, treacle, and an array of nuts – hazelnuts, walnuts, and almonds – add depth, complemented by hints of honey and a whisper of aniseed. The palate is rounded out by lacquered noble woods, perfectly integrated winey nuances, and a delightful twist of apricot jam infused with the nuttiness of cracked apricot almonds.
Finish:
The stunning wood notes linger beautifully, accompanied by smoked dates, rich mocha, and apricot almonds dipped in honey. A subtle hint of savoury bacon adds an unexpected but delightful twist, leaving a lasting impression.
Comments:
Just wow. Some of the notes I typically dislike in Ledaig, like the farmy aromas and occasional sulphur, all come together perfectly here. In fact, they don’t just work – they’re essential to what makes this venerable Ledaig 1972 Dùsgadh truly sublime. Both this one and the Swell expression have proven that my decision to keep trying more Ledaig was well worth it, even though I had been far from convinced up until now.
Rating: 9/10
Big thanks Mathieu & Maxime!
