Let’s take a break from Scotland and explore a few European whiskies. Some of these come courtesy of the aptly nicknamed Harry ‘Eurowhisky,’ who attended the first French whisky show in Rennes in early April last year. He stayed to guest host at my whisky club, the equally aptly named Rennes Whisky Club, for the second year running. Today, I’ll review four European whiskies: one I sampled at Malt in France (mark your calendars for the second edition on April 5th and 6th, 2025!) and three brought by Harry to the club.
Bows Benleioc Original Review
Let’s begin with a French single malt from Bows Distillerie, a young distillery founded in 2016 in Occitania, in the southwest of France. This Benleioc Original is crafted from five virgin oak casks with medium char, ex-cognac casks, and finished in Pacherenc casks, a local Vin Doux Naturel (VDN). Bottled at 45%, it doesn’t specify whether it’s chill-filtered or if the colour is natural. The distillery recently updated its packaging to a beautiful 500 ml bottle priced at around €49 in France. However, I have the previous version, which comes in a 700 ml bottle and is also quite attractive.
Colour:
Russet
Nose:
Neat: The nose opens with prominent woody notes – think fresh wood planks and pencil shavings – complemented by hints of rubber bands and sandalwood. This evolves into fruity tones of plums and peach stones, rounded out by a bouquet of floral aromas.
Palate:
Neat: The palate offers a creamy mouthfeel with a good weight. It opens on sandalwood and warming spices, followed by unripe stone fruits. Notes of Weetabix and a splash of lemon juice emerge, alongside light rancio and a hint of red apple. The wood influence is particularly pronounced throughout.
Finish:
The finish is medium in length, with a lingering woody bitterness accompanied by subtle hints of milk chocolate.
Comments:
This whisky shows promise, but the virgin oak has unfortunately overshadowed the spirit, making its presence a bit too dominant. At times, it even leans toward the profile of a young cognac. The sweet wine finish does introduce some fruity notes that help bring a touch of balance. I’ll definitely keep an eye on Bows Distillerie in the future, as there’s clear potential here. With a mix of strengths and minor flaws, it feels fair to settle on a middle-ground rating for now.
Rating: 5/10
Lambertus 3-year-old Organic Single Malt Review
Lambertus is a single malt brand produced by Radermacher, a Belgian distillery founded in 1836. Unfortunately, little is known about the Lambertus 3-year-old aside from the fact that it’s distilled from organic malted barley. Bottled at 47% ABV, it’s priced at around €55 in Belgium.
Colour:
Chestnut.
Nose:
Neat: The nose reveals a noticeable woodiness, similar to the Bows, but less intense. Aromas of sandalwood and cigar box are complemented by bright citrus notes, including orange and quince, with a hint of geranium and a subtle vinous undertone.
Palate:
Neat: The palate opens with prominent wood notes, echoing the nose. Interestingly, if I tasted blind, I might have mistaken this for a rye whisky, as it shares similarities with something like Sagamore Double Oak Rye. The robust woody and spicy character is accompanied by rich dark caramel notes.
Finish:
The finish is medium short, with lingering citrusy and woody notes.
Comments:
I find this whisky both interesting and surprising, as it immediately evokes the characteristics I associate with rye whisky. However, after that, it feels a bit straightforward, which is to be expected given its young age. I’d be curious to try older expressions.
Rating: 5.5/10
Scheibel Mühle Emill Stockwerk Review
Stockwerk is crafted by Scheibel Mühle distillery, from whisky aged in four different cask types, each stored on a separate floor of an old mill that has been converted into a distillery. The finishing barrels are kept on the first floor, where temperatures range from 5 °C to 15 °C. European oak casks are on the second floor, with temperatures between 10 °C and 25 °C. Cognac casks occupy the third floor, with a temperature range of 0 °C to 30 °C. Finally, American oak casks are stored on the fourth floor, where temperatures fluctuate between -10 °C and 45 °C. The whisky matured in Cognac, European oak, and American oak casks is then married in the finishing casks on the first floor before being bottled at 46% ABV. It’s priced at around €70 in Germany.
Colour:
Burnished.
Nose:
Neat: The nose is quite intense from the outset. It’s dominated by woody and grainy notes, with a hint of overripe fruits and a strong leathery character, almost veering into rancio. There’s also an earthy touch of wild fern from the forest, along with the sweetness of forest honey.
Palate:
Neat: The palate opens with a pronounced woodiness, offering a mouthfeel that’s both thin and velvety. Soft wood spices come through, along with barley husks and hints of exotic wood. Flavours of blood orange juice and peel mingle with cracked apricot stone, finishing with a touch of wood polish.
Finish:
The finish carries the wood notes from the palate, lingering for quite a long time. It doesn’t differ much from the palate, though it does reveal a touch more spice.
Comments:
It’s not bad, but not great either. While this isn’t quite my style, it’s still a solid whisky – well made, though perhaps a bit too woody for my taste.
Rating: 5/10
Slyrs Amontillado Cask Finish Review
Slyrs Distillery is a Bavarian whisky maker located near Lake Schliersee in southern Germany, founded in 1999. The Slyrs Amontillado Cask Finish is a single malt initially matured in new American oak casks and finished in Amontillado sherry casks. It’s bottled at 46% ABV, without added colouring or chill filtration. Prices typically start around €70 in Germany and €90 in France.
Colour:
Tawny.
Nose:
Neat: The nose initially resembles the Emill Stockwerk, with sharp woody notes upfront. It’s then followed by rich aromas of hazelnut, vanilla, fudge, and a hint of blond tobacco.
Palate:
Neat: The palate mirrors the nose, starting with a woody arrival and a mouthfeel that initially feels thin, but becomes creamier with time. Flavours of leather, hazelnut, and walnut emerge, alongside hints of unripe dates, wood spices, and a bit of wood bitterness – almost like licking a stave. There’s also dark chocolate, paired with plum and floral notes, as well as sherry-soaked raisins and cherries.
Finish:
The finish is medium in length, with lingering notes of cherry, wood spices, and a pleasant nuttiness.
Comments:
Once again, I’m not completely convinced by this whisky. While it’s well made and free from any major flaws, it just doesn’t resonate with me. The heavy wood influence is a bit of a letdown, though I can see how others might appreciate it.
Rating: 5.5/100
Thanks Harry!
