The Cairn Distillery, nestled in the Cairngorms National Park near Grantown-on-Spey, represents a £25 million investment by fourth-generation family business Gordon & MacPhail, known for reviving Benromach Distillery in 1998. As the first new distillery built in the park since its establishment, it combines cutting-edge architecture with reverence for its dramatic Highland surroundings, featuring floor-to-ceiling windows that frame views of the Cairngorm mountains and River Spey. While the first spirit flowed in 2022 – described as medium-bodied with sweet malt and vibrant fruit notes – the inaugural single malt won’t bottle until the mid-2030s. This extended maturation reflects Gordon & MacPhail’s legacy of patient cask management, with initial fills stored off-site. Since their own single malts won’t be released for years and decades, The Cairn released a series of blended malts, called CRN57 (named for the 57th parallel latitude), in order to preview the distillery’s future single malt character through expressions aged 12 to 70 years. Let’s review the one in the middle: The Cairn CRN57 30-year-old.
Preview Blended Malts?
Before diving into the review of The Cairn CRN57 30-year-old, it’s essential to discuss the concept of a ‘preview’ whisky. This idea isn’t new; other distilleries have employed similar strategies. A notable example is Raasay’s While We Wait, which combines peated and unpeated single malts from Loch Lomond.
The use of blended malts sourced from various distilleries to provide a glimpse into future single malts – especially those that may be released in 10 to 70 years – raises intriguing questions about flavour reliability and maturation processes. Blended malts consist solely of malt whiskies from different distilleries, allowing for a creative fusion of flavours that can hint at the potential characteristics of upcoming single malt expressions.
However, beyond serving as a reliable preview of what the distillery’s future products might taste like, this practice is largely an academic exercise. It illustrates the style and flavour profile the distillery aims to produce down the line. Yet, the likelihood that expressions released in a decade or more will closely resemble these previews is questionable, particularly with older age statements. Many of us – myself included – may never have the opportunity to taste a 70-year-old whisky from The Cairn.
Imagine being a younger whisky enthusiast who manages to secure a bottle of The Cairn CRN57 70-year-old when their own 70-year-old single malt is finally released. After seven decades of bottle ageing, the original vision for that whisky would have likely shifted significantly, especially with potentially two new generations taking over leadership at the distillery, each with their evolving goals.
Ultimately, while it’s important not to overestimate the accuracy of these preview blends in predicting what will be delivered decades from now, they should be viewed as an indication of the distillery’s aspirations and as marketing tools – hopefully effective ones – to fill the gap while we wait (pun intended) for their whisky to become of (very old) age, utilising their owners’ extensive stock of whiskies.
The Cairn CRN57° 30-year-old Review
CRN57° 30-year-old is a Speyside blended malt whisky bottled by The Cairn Distillery. It is bottled at 51.9% ABV, though details about the cask types used for maturation and the origins of the component malts remain undisclosed. It is still available in France for around €375 and can also be found at The Cairn Distillery, though the exact price there is unclear.
Colour:
Old oak.
Nose:
Neat: The nose opens with elegant winey notes, old oak, and polished wood – so much so that, if nosed blind, it could be mistaken for a cognac. Aromas of cedar, a cigar box, and roasted hazelnuts.
With water: Sweeter notes emerge, primarily brown sugar, accompanied by hints of dusty shelves, an old leather armchair, and a touch of cinnamon.
Palate:
Neat: A burst of ash and bold spice, with a kick of black pepper and jalapeño. Bright citrus notes of lemon and grapefruit balance the richness of dark chocolate, wood tannins, and oak. Roasted hazelnuts and macadamia, blood orange marmalade with hints of quince and tropical tots to bring a touch of sweetness.
With water: The profile turns fruitier, with salted prunes taking centre stage. The wood influence becomes more pronounced, while the spices mellow, revealing cinnamon, nasturtium, and almost a wisp of smoke.
Finish:
The wood and jalapeño pepper notes linger for a while before easing, allowing the nutty flavors to shine through in the final moments.
Comments:
What a surprising whisky. Neat, it initially presents itself much like a cognac – with prominent wood and nut notes that are very appealing, though the palate carries a bit too much spice. However, just a few drops of water transform it, revealing hints of an ex-Islay peated cask, with salt and a touch of smoke making an appearance. If not for the slightly overwhelming spiciness, I’d rate it an 8/10; instead, it earns a solid 7.5. It’s a truly intriguing blended malt, and if The Cairn CRN57 30-year-old is indicative of The Cairn Distillery’s style, they’ve definitely captured my interest.
Rating: 7.5/10
Big thanks to Stan!
