I can’t believe I haven’t reviewed any Bunnahabhain on More Drams yet. Bunnahabhain Distillery, located on the northeastern coast of Islay, Scotland, has a storied history that reflects the evolution of the Scotch whisky industry. Founded in 1881 by William Robertson and the Greenlees brothers, Bunnahabhain was established to create a distinctive whisky that would stand apart from its heavily peated neighbours. The distillery’s name, derived from the Scottish Gaelic ‘Bun na h-Abhainne,’ translates to ‘Mouth of the River,’ highlighting its scenic location near the River Margadale. For a first post regarding that distillery, we’ll review three 1987 to 1991 indy bottlings of Bunnahabhain, but first, let’s quickly talk about their history.
Bunnahabhain History And Facts
The distillery began production in 1883 and quickly became part of the burgeoning whisky market. In 1887, it merged with W. Grant & Co. and Glenrothes-Glenlivet to form the Highland Distilleries Company, which further solidified its presence in the industry. Initially, Bunnahabhain’s whisky was primarily used for blending, contributing to popular brands like The Famous Grouse and Cutty Sark. This focus on blending would dominate its early years, with the distillery’s single malts receiving limited attention.
Throughout the 20th century, Bunnahabhain faced several challenges, including periods of closure during the early 1930s and again in the 1980s due to declining demand. Despite these setbacks, it managed to reopen in 1984 and continued producing whisky, albeit at a reduced capacity. A significant turning point came in 2003 when Burn Stewart Distillers acquired Bunnahabhain from Edrington Group. This acquisition marked a renewed focus on single malt production, allowing Bunnahabhain to flourish as a brand.
In recent years, Bunnahabhain has gained recognition for its (usually) unpeated style and quality single malts, appealing to whisky enthusiasts worldwide. The distillery has since become part of Distell Group Limited, which acquired Burn Stewart in 2013.
Bunnahabhain Distillery operates with a production capacity of approximately 2.7 million litres per annum, although current output is around 1.5 million litres. The distillery features four copper pot stills: two wash stills, each with a capacity of 35,000 litres, and two spirit stills, each holding about 15,500 litres. Fermentation occurs in six washbacks made of Douglas fir, with a total capacity of 100,000 litres, and the fermentation process lasts about 55 to 56 hours, resulting in a fruity wash ideal for distillation. Bunnahabhain utilises one of the largest mash tuns in Scotland, capable of processing 8.5 tonnes of barley meal to produce around 35,000 litres of wort after a 12-hour mash cycle. The distillery primarily matures its whisky in sherry casks, taking advantage of its coastal location to impart marine characteristics to the spirit during the aging process. Additionally, half of the spent grains are repurposed for energy recovery, while the remainder is used as cattle feed.
Bunnahabhain 28-year-old Untold Riches Wemyss Malts (2020) Review
The Bunnahabhain 28-Year-Old ‘Untold Riches’ Wemyss Malts is a vatting of casks filled between 1987 and 1991 (28 hogsheads and 3 sherry butts). Bottled in 2020 at 49.1% ABV, this non-chill filtered and naturally coloured whisky is a release of 6,500 bottles. Almost sold out, but still available at a few greedy shops with a huge markup on top of its original €170 RRP.
Colour:
Russet
Nose:
Neat: A rich bouquet unfolds with sweet butterscotch and plump sultanas at the forefront. Aromas of tart tatin mingle with warm wood spices, while honey and beeswax lend a smooth, waxy character. Subtle whispers of smoke and iodine, complemented by traces of glue and amaretto.
Palate:
Neat: The initial softness quickly gives way to a spicy arrival, dominated by wood spices and caramel. A brief, invigorating burst of ginger and chili heat subsides, revealing a citrusy sourness. Grapefruit, blood oranges, and lemon zest dance on the tongue, accompanied by notes of tobacco and leather. The whisky presents a pleasantly oily mouthfeel, leading to flavours of dried red fruits and more caramel.
Finish:
A medium to long finish ensues, characterised by lingering spiciness, a pleasant maltiness and the sweet, slightly bitter notes of burnt brown sugar caramel.
Comments:
Lovely nose, but an even better palate. The first sip delivers a surprising burst of spice, which soon mellows, giving way to rich, layered flavours.
Rating: 7/10
Bunnahabhain 1989 Blackadder (2017) Review
The Bunnahabhain 1989 Blackadder is a 28-year-old single malt Scotch whisky. It was distilled in 1989 and bottled by Blackadder as part of their premium Raw Cask Statement range. This expression is bottled at a strength of 48.1% ABV. The Raw Cask range is known for its unique bottling process, which aims to preserve the whisky’s natural characteristics: bottling at cask strength without any filtration, so there may be cask sediment in the bottle.. This particular bottling is part of Blackadder’s Statement Edition #27, a higher range than the Raw Casks. Unfortunately sold out.
Colour:
Brownish mahogany.
Nose:
Neat: The sherry finish asserts itself prominently, offering a rich bouquet of brown sugar and dried fruits, notably dates and figs. Notes of sticky pudding and Chinese New Year Cake (Nian Gao) add a unique sweetness. A subtle salty undertone complements roasted hazelnut aromas, while hints of Timanoix cheese (infused with walnut liquor) provide an intriguing and unusual savoury element.
Palate:
Neat: Surprisingly, a light peated character emerges, undetected in the nose. Plump raisins mingle with wood spices and tannins, dark cherries and candied ginger offer fruity and spicy notes, balanced by the bitterness of black tea. Jaffa cakes contribute a zesty orange-chocolate interplay. The wood influence is pronounced, perhaps slightly dominating.
Finish:
Jaffa cakes persist, accompanied by notes of varnished wood and exotic sandalwood. A sweet finale of Canadian maple syrup snow candy lingers.
Comments:
A delicious Bunnahabhain 1989 from Blackadder that feels lightly peated, even though it likely isn’t. The sherry influence is prominent, but its deep, dark, and rich flavours are beautifully balanced, making for a really captivating dram.
Rating: 8/10
Bunnahabhain 1991 Gordon&Macphail (2021) Review
The Bunnahabhain 1991 Connoisseur’s Choice by Gordon & MacPhail is a 29-year-old single malt Scotch whisky. Distilled on May 6, 1991, and bottled on January 14, 2021, this expression was matured in a refill American Hogshead cask (number 3078). The bottling is part of batch 21/034 and was released at a cask strength of 50.2% ABV. This single cask yielded 204 bottles, unfortunately all sold out.
Colour:
Deep gold.
Nose:
Neat: Vibrant yellow fruits mingle with zesty citrus notes of grapefruit and lemon, complemented by the sweetness of apricots. A delicate pinch of pepper adds a subtle spice. The aroma is further enhanced by hints of dried banana crisps, creamy vanilla, and the earthy scent of an unlit cigar.
Palate:
Neat: A sweet arrival transitions into citrusy notes of grapefruit and lemon that remain prominent, alongside the intriguing addition of smoked pineapple. A distinctive chalky minerality emerges, reminiscent of limestone, interwoven with the coastal influence of sea spray and iodine. A gentle chili pepper heat adds a touch of warmth, balanced by the robust character of strong coffee.
Finish:
The finish is remarkably long, leaving a lasting impression of smoked pepper and pleasant minerality.
Comments:
A completely different take on Bunnahabhain with this 1991 from Gordon & Macphail – still lightly peated, but far more summery. It effortlessly evokes the feeling of enjoying an apéritif by the seaside, with a fresh, breezy character perfect for warm evenings.
Rating: 8/10
Thank you, Matthias! Bottle photos courtesy of Whiskybase.
