Silvano Samaroli was a pioneering figure in the world of whisky and spirits, known for his groundbreaking contributions to independent bottling and blending. Starting in the 1960s, he selected exceptional casks of Scotch whisky based on their unique character and quality, rather than age or prestige. His bottlings became highly sought after by connoisseurs, and his uncompromising standards set new benchmarks in the industry. Samaroli’s legacy includes his role as an educator and his influence on the rise of independent bottlers. Today, he is remembered as a visionary whose dedication to craftsmanship continues to inspire new generations of enthusiasts and professionals. We review a blended malt he created, but that was bottled by his widow a few years after his death, the No Age Declared Blended Malt Masam.
Is This Blended Malt A Sacrilege?
The idea and the whisky come from the late Silvano Samaroli. This 2020 edition is bottled by Masam, which is an acronym for Maryse Samaroli, Silvano’s wife.
With only 310 bottles of 700 ml each in the release, the quantities of most components in this blend are limited. However, some of these whiskies and their vintages are truly exceptional and worthy of mention, regardless of their actual volumes. This blend is undoubtedly one of the rarest and most expensive recipes ever created.
In 2016, these whiskies were carefully blended and vatted together under Silvano’s supervision, just a year before his passing. They were then left to marry for approximately four years before being bottled. While this whisky is not inexpensive, its price is quite reasonable considering the rarity of its components. For your appreciation, here is the list of whiskies included, from oldest to youngest:
- Mortlach 1957, 1984
- Springbank 1959, 1962, 1965, 1979 Sherry, 1985 Sherry
- Longrow 1973, 1974 Sherry, 1987
- Bruichladdich 1964 Sherry
- Tomintoul 1967
- Laphroaig 1967 Sherry, 1970
- Glenlivet 1968 Sherry, 1971 Sherry
- Glen Garioch 1971 Sherry, 1975
- Ardbeg 1974, 1976
- Ardmore 1977
- Caol Ila 1977
- Talisker 1978 Sherry, 1980, 1987
- Glen Grant 1979 Sherry, 1985
- Highland Park 1980, 1984, 1990
- Port Ellen 1981
- Miltonduff 1984
- Lagavulin 1988
- Linkwood 1989 Sherry
- Glenburgie 1990, 2004
- Cragganmore 1997
- Dailuaine 2001
Now, is blending all those unicorn whiskies a sacrilege?
Well, the question of whether it is a sacrilege to use old and precious whiskies to create a no-age blended malt whisky is a matter of perspective and depends on various factors, including cultural attitudes, personal preferences, and the goals of the blender.
On the ’against’ side, old whiskies often have historical and cultural significance. Using them in a blend might be seen as disrespectful to their heritage, especially if the blend does not highlight their unique qualities. They are often rare and limited in quantity. Blending them could mean that these unique expressions are no longer available in their original form, which might be seen as a loss to connoisseurs and collectors. Furthermore, some whisky enthusiasts believe that old and precious whiskies should be enjoyed in their purest form, without blending. They argue that blending can dilute the unique characteristics that make these whiskies special. I can understand these arguments.
On the ‘in favour’ side, blending is an art form that can create something new and extraordinary. A skilled blender can use old and precious whiskies to create a blend that is greater than the sum of its parts, offering a unique tasting experience. Using old and precious whiskies in a blend can also be seen as a form of innovation and creativity. It allows for the exploration of new flavour profiles and the creation of something that has never been tasted before. Blending can also be a way to preserve the flavours of old and precious whiskies, especially if they are at risk of deteriorating over time. By incorporating them into a blend, their unique characteristics can be enjoyed by a wider audience, as long as they’re still discernable. Blending can make these rare whiskies more accessible to a broader range of consumers. While a bottle of a rare, old whisky might be prohibitively expensive, a blend that includes it might be more affordable but, I agree, in that case you don’t taste it in its purest form.
In the end, whether using old and precious whiskies in a no-age blended malt whisky is a sacrilege or not depends on one’s perspective. For some, it is a way to honour and preserve the unique qualities of these whiskies, while for others, it may be seen as disrespectful to their heritage. Ultimately, the decision to blend such whiskies should be made with careful consideration of their historical and cultural significance, as well as the goals and values of the blender and the intended audience.
No Age Declared Blended Malt Scotch Whisky Masam Review
As mentioned above, this No Age Declared blended malt from Masam is made from dozens of rare whiskies and different vintages. It was bottled in 2020 at 52.9% ABV, without chill filtration nor additional colouring. Obviously, this whisky is sold out but you can still buy a sample on Rhum Attitude.
Colour:
Yellow gold.
Nose:
Neat: The nose starts with a very elegant smoky peat, maritime and medicinal, but also floral and elegant. Follows a beautiful medley of fruits: melons, peaches, pears, apricots, nectarines, oranges and traces of green bananas. There are also lighter notes of figs and red berries, leather and tobacco leaves probably imparted by the sherry cask matured components. Very elegant ‘despite’ the smoke (I’m not sure I should say despite) maybe ever so slightly too on the front.
With water: Cigar leaves, more leather, traces of pineapple,
Palate:
Neat: The arrival feels a little light and sweet at first but then quickly ramps up. The smokiness takes the lead like on the nose, immediately followed by a nice hit of spices. Ashes over chocolate, pepper, smoke, seawater and seaweed, bitter herbs, and in the back hints of a fruit salad in syrup. A bit of citrusy sourness as well.
With water: The palate becomes spicier, and the mouthfeel goes from very lightly thin to creamy. Smoked Jaffa cake, eucalyptus,
Finish:
Smoked lemons, milk chocolate, ashes, lots of chocolate in fact, dark and milk, smoked and not smoked. Dried herbs (origan and ‘herbes de Haute Provence’). Long finish.
Comments:
There’s the Ardmore type smokiness, elegant, but the more maritime Islay peat from the Islay components is also well present, but well balanced with the Highland peat. Likewise on the palate, though it lacks a bit of fruitiness and brightness, it’s more around smoke/maritime/chocolate and not as much on fruits as the nose. A shame, with a bit more fruitiness, it would have gone to a 9, but an 8 is already an excellent rating, like this whisky is.
