We’re back from a three weeks break with a pair of whiskies from Ardmore. Ardmore Distillery, founded in 1898 by Adam Teacher in Kennethmont, Aberdeenshire, was originally established to supply peated malt for the widely popular Teacher’s Highland Cream blend. Ardmore also exists on its own, and is now operated by Suntory Global Spirits. Let’s learn a bit more about Ardmore, then we’ll review two independent bottlings showing the two sides of this distillery, producing mostly peated whisky but also some unpeated ones, with the Ardlair 2011 van Wees and the Ardmore 25-year-old Thompson Brothers.
Ardmore Distillery
As I mentioned earlier, Adam Teacher founded Ardmore Distillery in 1898. Situated in the rugged northern Highlands, Ardmore sources its water from springs on Knockandy Hill and sits at the highest point of the Northern railway line – features that have shaped its history and ongoing operations. Ardmore adheres to traditional production methods, including fermentation in wooden washbacks, the use of Aberdeenshire peat, and, until the early 2000s, coal-fired stills – practices that give its whiskies their distinctive style.
Ardmore specialises in producing peated single malt Scotch whisky, renowned for its gentle Highland smoke – marked by earthy, woodsmoke notes rather than the maritime peatiness of Islay whiskies. The core bottling, Ardmore Legacy, features subtle smoke balanced by sweet vanilla and fruit notes. Limited releases such as Ardmore Tradition, Triple Wood, and Port Wood offer more complex cask finishes and richness. Unfortunately, these non-age statement whiskies only hint at Ardmore’s full potential.
Independent bottlings have significantly enhanced the distillery’s reputation, often providing higher proof and non-chill filtered expressions sought after by whisky enthusiasts. Both seasoned enthusiasts and newcomers appreciate their whiskies for their approachable peat character and underlying sweetness.
Since converting to their stills to steam heat, Ardmore produces two malt styles:
- Ardmore: Heavily peated single malt.
- Ardlair: Unpeated single malt, distilled at specific times of the year using unpeated barley.
Ardlair reveals a softer, fruit forward, and floral profile, contrasting with the smokier Ardmore malt. Although Ardmore has never officially bottled Ardlair, independent bottlers offer it in limited releases, and it is valued for its delicate Highland character.
But let’s explore these two sides without further ado, shall we?
Ardlair 2011 van Wees (2024) Review
As explained above, this Ardlair originates from unpeated malt. Distilled on the 27th of January 2011, it matured for 13 years in three refill Oloroso sherry butts (numbers 900,039, -41, and -42). Van Wees, a Dutch independent bottler, bottled it on the 26th of February 2024. This release produced 1,772 bottles at cask strength, 63.5% ABV (so the casks likely had an initial fill strength around 70% ABV instead of the common 63.5%), without chill filtration or added colour. This release remains available in Germany and the Netherlands, priced from €53 to €59.
Colour:
Old gold.
Nose:
Neat: The nose presents a very intense aroma with a prominent alcohol presence. Upon careful approach, you can detect lightly sulphury notes, overripe bananas, and other fruits, almost resembling fruit compost. The intensity remains high even after breathing for nearly half an hour, suggesting the need for water to reveal more aromas.
With water: Initial reduction allows the nose to become more approachable, though it remains sharp. Aromas of apricot almonds, damp wood, the inside of a metallic tube, and the inside of a hose emerge. Further reduction introduces notes of barley, damp wood, traces of ginger, and even a hint of ratatouille.
Palate:
Neat: The palate exhibits considerable intensity, with the alcohol heat suggesting a strength even higher than 63.5% ABV. The sherry influence is noticeable, offering nutty flavours, cherries, plums, cinnamon, and a significant amount of pepper. There is also a tartness reminiscent of Arlequin candy but with less sweetness.
With water: Flavours of plums and mirabelles, along with unsalted almonds, present themselves with a very creamy mouthfeel. Further reduction brings hints of tropical fruits and a clearer pepper note.
Finish:
When neat, the finish delivers notes of wood, dark chocolate, and coffee, while the flavours of plums and cherries persist. After reduction, a tartness appears, evoking peeled green apples with a touch of squeezed lemon juice. Over time, it becomes slightly astringent, drying the gums.
Comments:
Wow, this Ardlair 2011 from van Wees really puts up a fight. When neat, it can feel lethal and might even seem like it’s trying to overpower you. You expect some heat given the ABV, but it delivers even more. You need to use the pipette generously to tame it, and once you do, it transforms into a lovely whisky with a restrained sherry influence, thanks to the refill butts. It’s a fun yet dangerous whisky!
Rating: 6.5/10
Ardmore 25-year-old Thompson Bros (2024) Review
Next, we explore the peated side of Ardmore with a 25-year-old Ardmore, vatted from two refill hogsheads distilled in 1998 and 1999, and bottled in 2024 by the Thompson Bros. This release produced 463 bottles at 48.9% ABV, though it remains unclear if this is at cask strength. It comes without chill filtration or added colour. You can find it in the UK from £211 and in Europe from €220.
Colour:
Pale gold.
Nose:
Neat: The nose offers a lovely mossy and herbal peat aroma with a slightly medicinal smoke. It presents citrus notes of various lemons, yuzu, and kumquat, along with hints of olive oil, copper coins, tin sardines, hay, and tomato leaves.
Palate:
Neat: The palate provides a syrupy mouthfeel, with peat and smoke that remain quite vibrant despite its age. Flavours of smoked apricots and peaches on a charcoal BBQ, accompanied by a touch of ash, come through. The profile is also quite vegetal, featuring several herbs and leaves, light hints of tropical fruits, wood, a slight saltiness, pepper, dark chocolate, and instant coffee.
Finish:
The finish delivers pepper and citrus fruits, complemented by dark chocolate and the essence of a smoking birch fire.
Comments:
This 25-year-old Ardmore from the Thompson Bros is an excellent aged expression, maintaining a surprising level of peatiness despite its age, as peat tends to soften over time. One might wonder if an old Ardmore could be anything less when not marred by poor cask choices. Another excellent selection from the Dornoch indy bottlers.