Glen Spey, one of the four distilleries located in Rothes, Scotland, appears to have ceased whisky production in recent years, shifting its focus to gin production for Diageo. Unfortunately, available information on this transition is quite limited – so if anyone knows more about it, please do reach out! Despite an annual capacity of about 1.4 million litres, Glen Spey’s output has long been dedicated primarily to blending – most notably for J&B, which we’ve reviewed a few times recently. Interestingly, older casks from Glen Spey still surface through independent bottlers, which is what draws our attention today – let’s discover the Glen Spey 2011 vanWees and a 1997 from The Whisky Agency
Glen Spey 2011 van Wees (2023) Review
Let’s begin with the youngest expression: this Glen Spey was distilled on June 1, 2011, and bottled on February 16, 2023, by van Wees for their The Ultimate collection. After maturing for 11 years in cask 802,433 – decharred and recharred – it was bottled at cask strength (58.4% ABV), with no chill filtration and no added colouring. Of the 279 bottles released, many are still available in the Netherlands and Germany, typically priced between €50 and €55.
Colour:
Deep gold.
Nose:
Neat: The nose presents creamy vanilla and custard, with a touch of lemon juice. Sweet fudge emerges first, followed by spearmint and peppermint, then subtle wood and nougat notes.
With water: Cherry and strawberry sweets appear, alongside orange blossom cake and a faint woody sharpness.
Palate:
Neat: The arrival delivers a sharp heat, with a spike of spices (tabasco and pepper) from the high ABV, but this fades quickly. Low-sugar custard follows, then citrus, coffee, and charred wood.
With water: Wood spices and bitterness dominate; dilution suggests the recharred wood has a fresher, almost virgin character. Dark chocolate, lemon, and pepper linger.
Finish:
It remains long and warming, with caramel, lemon juice, wood, and espresso.
Comments:
This Glen Spey selected by vanWees delivers bold character and a satisfying punch, showcasing its strengths with confidence. The flavours are engaging, yet the profile could benefit from greater harmony – some elements feel slightly disjointed rather than fully woven together. It’s a well-made whisky with clear merits, but its assertive style may not align with every drinker’s taste.
Rating: 6.5/10
Glen Spey 1997 The Whisky Agency (2024) Review
Next up is a 26-year-old Glen Spey, distilled in 1997 and bottled in 2024 by The Whisky Agency as part of their Under Water – Car series. Matured in a single butt cask, it was bottled at natural cask strength (49.8% ABV), unchillfiltered and without added colouring. Unlike the vanWees, this release sits in a higher price bracket – currently available at Whiskybase for around €250.
Colour:
Pale straw. After 26 years in a (probably sherry) butt, this must have been a tired one.
Nose:
Neat: The nose opens with pronounced intensity – citrus-forward notes of IPA, lime peel, and grapefruit lead, followed by leather, tobacco, and subtle wood. A faint solvent touch lingers in the background. The initial sharpness softens quickly, leaving a balanced, inviting aroma.
Palate:
Neat: The attack is intense and spicy, with chili heat and a touch of bitterness. Dark chocolate, coffee, and wood ground the profile, while sour lemon, grapefruit, cider vinegar, and umami-rich Marmite add complexity. The texture is creamy, coating the palate fully.
Finish:
The finish is long, with lemon peel and bitter albedo, dried leather, and espresso crema.
Comments:
This 26-year-old Glen Spey offers an intriguing departure from the typical butt-matured profile – its character leans less toward the expected rounded richness and more toward an unexpected interplay of bitterness, sour tang, and assertive spice. The combination may catch some off guard, straying from conventional Speyside elegance, yet that very unpredictability makes it compelling and thought-provoking. Not a crowd-pleaser, perhaps, but a bold, characterful dram that rewards those who appreciate complexity over conformity. A fascinating detour for the adventurous whisky drinker… who has deep pockets.