Almost two years ago, I reviewed two Benriach 12-year-old expressions from the distillery’s modern range – the line introduced after the major rebranding of September 2020. That refreshed identity brought a new look and a more contemporary flavour philosophy under its A World of Flavour portfolio.
But what did Benriach taste like before this new era? Perhaps you’ve never asked yourself that question – though I certainly have. To satisfy that curiosity, this review revisits four Benriach bottlings from the 2010s: three official releases, including one peated expression, and one independent bottling. Together they offer a snapshot of how the distillery’s character evolved before its transformation into the Benriach we know today.
Benriach 20-year-old (2010) Review
We begin with a Benriach 20-year-old, bottled in 2010. Benriach initially released this expression in the late 2000s. The distillery bottled it at 43% ABV but did not specify the maturation cask types or clarify whether chill filtration or colouring was used. To find a bottle now, you must rely on the secondary market.
Colour:
Amontillado.
Nose:
Neat: Fresh notes of pears, apples, peaches, and melon open the nose. Gentle floral tones of potpourri mingle with dark honey, cabbage, and cinnamon. A subtle oak influence appears alongside hints of corn syrup, olive brine, and a dusty touch.
Palate:
Neat: Sweet fruits are first on the palate, followed by mild spice – pears and peaches seasoned with cinnamon, pepper, Tabasco, and cloves. Milk chocolate and a faint woody bitterness add a little bit of depth, but the wood adds a slightly raspy texture. Herbal touches and nutty hints of almond and hazelnut complement the otherwise velvety mouthfeel.
Finish:
Pepper and wood bitterness lead the finish, supported by a faint echo of melon. The flavours remain balanced, lingering to a medium length.
Comments:
This BenRiach shows pleasant character, but the low ABV limits its impact and allows the oak to dominate, revealing that the casks likely weren’t of the highest quality. The whisky remains enjoyable and well made, yet it struggles to impress beyond that. It’s a solid dram, but it leaves a faint sense of disappointment considering what could have been.
Rating: 6/10
BenRiach 25-year-old (2016) Review
Benriach released its 25-year-old expression in 2016, maturing it in a combination of Oloroso sherry, bourbon, and virgin oak casks. The distillery bottled this whisky at 46.8% ABV, without chill filtration or added colour. Some retailers list bottles from this period between €250 and €400, but you may find better prices by trying your luck at auction.
Colour:
Chestnut.
Nose:
Neat: The nose shows moderate intensity with fresh aromas of vanilla, soft honey, peaches, and apricots. Sweet layers of maple syrup and caramel mingle with condensed milk and crème brûlée. Warm spices, mostly cinnamon, add complexity, complemented by a touch of toasted wood and strawberry yogurt.
Palate:
Neat: The palate opens with orange peel and a hint of light spices. Slightly sour berries and cherries are balanced by an herbaceous bitterness and sugared rhubarb. Nutty notes of almonds and hazelnut emerge as the sweetness of dried fruits takes over. The oak influence feels somewhat prominent but does not unbalance the palate. The mouthfeel feels a little thin.
Finish:
The finish features wood bitterness and pepper, with lingering hints of melon. Citrus fruits dominate the medium-length finish.
Comments:
This BenRiach 25-year-old is quite good, though it falls slightly short of delivering full impact despite its respectable 46.8% ABV and the absence of chill filtration. This whisky would likely have benefited from a higher bottling strength, around 50% ABV, and a reduction in virgin oak influence. Doing so would probably intensify the flavours and aromas, reducing the dominant wood notes and elevating this expression to a very good status. The current balance highlights rich layering but leans a bit heavily on oak, which tempers the whisky’s overall vibrancy and complexity.
Rating: 6.5/10
Benriach 1990 Liquid Treasures (2015) Review
This independent bottling features a Benriach 25-year-old distilled in 1990 and released in 2015 by Liquid Treasures. It matured in a bourbon barrel and was bottled at 47.9% ABV without chill filtration or added colour. This release has sold out.
Colour:
Yellow gold with a greyish hue.
Nose:
Neat: Light aromas of summer fruits such as apricots and peaches open the nose. A fleeting note of swimming pool chlorine resolves quickly, followed by toasted wood, dried herbs, and banana peel. There‘’’s also a touch of sharpness on the nose.
Palate:
Neat: The palate starts with spices and fruits, with pepper, Tabasco, and cloves mingling alongside peaches, pears, apples, and lemons. The mouthfeel feels syrupy, but somewhat diluted. Forest honey, citrus tartness, pickled ginger, and chocolate emerge as the palate progresses.
Finish:
The finish delivers citrus notes with a touch of wood and chocolate. A slightly ashy and spicy sensation lingers on the tongue, extending the finish to a long length.
Comments:
This independent 25-year-old BenRiach, bottled by Liquid Treasures, offers a charming summery whisky experience. While it may not qualify as a true gem, it delivers a lively, youthful character that belies its age – much like this not-so-humble writer, appearing younger than what it is. The expression charms with bright fruitiness and subtle spice, making it an enjoyable dram for warm weather or lighter palate preferences.
Rating: 7/10
BenRiach 17-year-old Septendecim (2010s) Review
We conclude this session with the Benriach 17-year-old Septendecim, a peated expression bottled during the 2010s. It matured exclusively in ex-bourbon casks and was bottled at 46% ABV without chill filtration or added colour. While it has sold out, you may occasionally find bottles available at auction.
Colour:
Jonquille
Nose:
Neat: The nose opens with dry peat smoke and heather, and resembles a young Ardbeg. Notes of old DIY tools and mechanical grease add an unusual but intriguing character. Cured ham and lemons provide savoury and fresh contrasts, while a pinch of salt rounds out a pleasantly complex aroma.
Palate:
Neat: The arrival feels somewhat light and would benefit from a higher ABV for improved mouthfeel, as it comes across slightly thin. Spices like pepper, Tabasco, and clove mingle with peaches, pears, apples, and lemons. Vanilla, icing sugar, mint, and eucalyptus add freshness, accompanied by strawberry-flavoured sweets and honey. Nutty undertones of walnuts and salted almonds complete the palate.
Finish:
The finish features black pepper, lemon, pears, and peaches, with gentle hints of vanilla and chocolate. It lingers to a medium length with a subtle ashy and spicy presence.
Comments:
This is a really well-crafted peated BenRiach. It carries a youthful vibrancy that masks its true age, making it taste somewhat younger than its years. Despite this, this Septendecim delivers genuinely enjoyable flavours and a balanced profile.