Review Archives - Page 2 of 16 - More drams, less drama

Mortlach 15-Year-Old Gordon & Macphail (1970s & 2015)

12th March 202412th March 2024Coldorak

Reflecting on my initial discussion of Mortlach from three years prior (time flies!), I recall mentioning the need to delve into their 2.81 distillation process, potentially following an overview of distillation itself. It seems that slipped my mind! Nevertheless, I’ll share some insights into their distillation method shortly. Meanwhile, let’s juxtapose two iterations of Mortlach’s 15-year-old, bottled by Gordon & Macphail: a vintage edition from the 1970s and a more recent release from 2015.

Millburn 1978 Gordon & Macphail

9th March 20249th March 2024Coldorak

Millburn Distillery, Inverness’ eldest among three (with Glen Albyn and Glen Mhor), traces its origins to a farm distillery alongside a river powering mill wheels, likely predating legal recognition. Though achieving legal status between 1805 and 1807, it remained inactive. A revival in 1825, led by inexperienced owners, faltered amidst the 1823 Excise Act’s challenges, closing in the 1850s, reverting to a flour mill. Rekindled in the 1870s by David Rose, it flourished under his son George’s management until the Haigs acquired it in 1892. Passing through several hands, including Booth’s and DCL, it ceased operations in 1985 due to the whisky surplus. Attempts at revival were thwarted in 1990, with the site repurposed as ‘The Auld Distillery,’ yet the potential for a micro-distillery remains, a tribute to Inverness’ legacy. We try today a Millburn 1978 bottled by Gordon & Macphail.

Official Glenlivet 12 and Speyside #4 Batch 13 Boutique-y

7th March 20247th March 2024Coldorak

Glenlivet is a distillery that left an indelible mark on Scotch whisky, particularly in the Speyside region. Many distilleries appended ‘Glenlivet’ to their name for years to align themselves with its esteemed reputation and the distinctive style of whisky crafted in Speyside. For further insight into this historical context, I recommend reading an article by the Professor on the now defunct scotchwhisky.com. Originally, this review was intended to feature a Glenlivet 12-year-old bottled in the 1970s or 1980s. Unfortunately, half of my miniature bottle evaporated, rendering the whisky flat and lifeless. Instead, we’ll explore an official Glenlivet 12-year-old from 2018, alongside a mysterious Speyside #4 Batch 13 from That Boutique-y Whisky Company. Yes, we may have tried a few other whiskies from Boutique-y recently! The identity of the secret Speyside #4 distillery remains a mystery, of course!

Four Indy Balblair

27th February 202427th February 2024Coldorak

Following the exploration of three independent bottlings from Bowmore, let’s now venture into the realm of another venerable distillery: Balblair. As I’ve previously expressed, Balblair holds a special place in my heart, and because of that, it was the very first distillery I had the pleasure of visiting in Scotland. Similar to our journey with Bowmore, we’ll delve into independent bottlings, this time featuring four indy Balblair expressions from That Boutique-y Whisky Company, Kintra, Cadenhead’s and the Scotch Malt Whisky Society.

Three Indy Bowmore

22nd February 202422nd February 2024Coldorak

Bowmore stands as Islay’s most ancient licensed distillery, sparking my initial interest for whisky some two decades ago with their 15-year-old expression. Back then, I was slim and still had some hair on my head. My, how time flies. Twenty years later, a visit to the distillery in July 2023 proved an exhilarating experience. Our guide’s warmth and knowledge captivated us, the other guests and me, allowing us to savour a unique moment of bottling a small cask sample straight from the cask in one of their warehouses. Then, our tasting session revealed a trove of delicious whiskies, awaiting my eventual review. But today, we explore three indy Bowmore expressions from three independent bottlers: The Whisky Agency, Svenska Eldvatten, and Malts of Scotland.

Japanese Blended Whisky #1 21yo Batch 2 That Boutique-y Whisky Company

Japanese Blended Whisky 21yo Boutique-y

15th February 202415th February 2024Coldorak

In the backdrop of Japan’s whisky shortage crisis in 2015, renowned brands such as Nikka and Suntory found themselves grappling with depleted stockpiles of aged whisky. In response, they made the strategic decision to either discontinue age statements for their flagship expressions or significantly curtail production, opting instead for controlled allocations to their distributors. This scarcity, coupled with a fervent fear of missing out and an element of greed, precipitated an unprecedented surge in prices for the remaining inventory, a trend that has persisted unabated till present day. Amidst this tumultuous landscape, however, That Boutique-y Whisky Company defied the odds by unearthing a cache of 21-year-old Japanese blended whisky, releasing six batches over a few years.

Armorik 2014 157.1 SMWS

9th February 20248th February 2024Coldorak

Despite the burgeoning French whisky scene and the significant strides made by the Scotch Malt Whisky Society in diversifying beyond the confines of ‘Scotch’ whisky, it wasn’t until 2023 that they ventured into bottling a French whisky. This trend isn’t unique to SMWS; a cursory glance at Whiskybase reveals a scant number of independent bottlers featuring products from Warenghem Distillery. This underrepresentation is regrettable, given my experience with over 40 whiskies tried from Warenghem, many of which were very good, and sometimes just properly exquisite though sadly elusive. Turning to SMWS and their foray into French whisky, it’s notable that their debut choice was Warenghem, renowned for their Armorik single malt. Let’s delve into the Armorik 2014 157.1 SMWS, marking a significant milestone as the first French whisky featured by the Scotch Malt Whisky Society.

Three Rye Whiskies From Overseas

6th February 20247th February 2024Coldorak

Rye whisky traces its origin to North America, with a history deeply rooted in the early days of European colonisation. Settlers, particularly those of Dutch and German descent, brought with them the tradition of distilling spirits from rye grain, a hardy cereal grain well suited to the continent’s climate. The popularity of rye whisky grew in the northeastern regions of the United States and parts of Canada, where the cool climate proved conducive to cultivating rye. Over time, this distilled beverage became an integral part of the North American whisky heritage. The production process typically involves fermenting and distilling a mash bill that contains a significant proportion of rye grain, usually at least 51%, but that can go up to 100%. Let’s review three rye whiskies from overseas, two from Canada and one from the USA.

Arran 18yo & Lochranza Castle

28th January 202428th January 2024Coldorak

Surprisingly, my exploration into Arran whiskies has been somewhat limited on my whisky journey. A mere 18 expressions have been recorded in my whisky tracking Google sheet, which includes the Lochranza variant that I will delve into shortly. Despite this modest number, I hold the Arran distillery in high esteem, particularly for their unpeated releases. It’s a distillery I frequently recommend to those seeking both flavour-packed and reasonably priced whiskies.

The acquisition of the Arran 18-year-old bottle, which forms the focal point of my review below, was a deliberate choice. I found myself orchestrating an online tasting featuring whiskies from the Scottish Islands a few months ago, and naturally, the Isle of Arran deserved representation. Whilst Lagg, the second distillery established by Arran Distillers, had already unveiled its inaugural whisky, I yearned for something more aged, leading me to the Arran 18-year-old expression.

In this review, I aim to explore the nuances of this Arran 18yo and compare it with the Lochranza Castle edition.

Springbank 10-year-old Palo Cortado

26th January 202427th January 2024Coldorak

As January 2024 draws to a close, I find myself reflecting on the passing weeks, realising it’s been a while since my last post. The onset of winter proved challenging, as a persistent illness lingered, not severe but enough to dampen my spirits and impede the joy of savouring and reviewing whiskies. Nevertheless, this unexpected hiatus provided an opportunity to thin out my whisky collection, creating some much-needed space on my shelves.

Towards the end of the previous year, a stroke of fortune came my way when a friend, employed at a local off-licence, secured for me a bottle of the elusive Springbank 10-year-old Palo Cortado at its recommended retail price. The only stipulation was a choice between unsealing the bottle or having my name adorn the label, a precaution to discourage resale. Opting for the latter, indifferent to the inclusion of my name or nickname, seemed a small price to pay for this coveted bottle, especially considering it needed to be shipped to me, so a perfect seal was mandatory. Interestingly, this decision has now become a recurring theme, with my name gracing labels of other Springbank bottles, ones I acquired during a visit to the distillery – ranging from handfills to a distinctive cage bottle, and even my personally crafted Springbank composition.

Having now recovered from my ailment, I’ve finally had the pleasure of sampling a few drams from the Springbank 10-year-old Palo Cortado. So, without further ado, let’s delve into a detailed review. But before we embark on this tasting journey, anticipate some changes on these pages.