Back in September, I attended the Dugas Club Expert show, primarily to catch up with Graham and Fay Coull, who were making an appearance since leaving Dingle. The event featured a stunning Suntory booth, as Dugas distributes their products in France. One side of the booth showcased Laphroaig and Bowmore, while the other side highlighted Suntory’s Japanese brands: Chita, Yamazaki, Hakushu, and Hibiki.
Thanks to the generous pours from Christophe Davoine, House of Suntory’s brand ambassador, I was able to bring home samples of Yamazaki 25-Year-Old and Hakushu 25-Year-Old for a proper review with a fresh palate. We’ve already reviewed the younger Yamazaki expressions – Distiller’s Reserve, 12-Year-Old, and 18-Year-Old – which happens to be one of the most read articles on this humble blog. Before I dive into Hakushu’s lineup, including the Distiller’s Reserve, 12-Year-Old, and 18-Year-Old (coming soon…ish), let’s focus on these 25-Year-Old expressions.
Yamazaki 25-year-old (2024) Review
The Yamazaki 25-Year-Old is matured in a combination of American oak, Spanish oak, and Japanese Mizunara oak casks before being bottled at 43% ABV. It’s likely to include E150 caramel colour and undergo chill filtering. In terms of pricing, expect to pay over €7,000 in France or £7,000 in the UK, though it occasionally surfaces for around €5,000 in Belgium. Your best option, however, might be the auction route, where it can sometimes be secured for approximately £3,500.
Colour:
Chestnut.
Nose:
Neat: The nose opens with rich buttery notes, quickly followed by cedar wood and the signature spices of Mizunara oak. Subtle aromas of light caramel and milk chocolate emerge, intertwined with vanilla and almond, evoking the comforting scent of a warm jésuite pastry (fun fact: despite the name, it’s actually a French pastry from Bordeaux!) Layers of orange-infused gingerbread, raisins, and leather develop, complemented by a whisper of dusty books and a touch of Demerara sugar.
Palate:
Neat: The palate is woodier than the nose suggests, with prominent notes of oak, cedar, warm spices, and pine needles mingled with sap. Strong, bitter black tea dominates initially, but subtler flavours emerge in the background – liquorice root and a hint of candied ginger. Black pepper and a touch of incense. Unfortunately, the mouthfeel is somewhat thin, due to the low 43% ABV.
Finish:
The finish offers a blend of orange peel with a hint of orange juice, accompanied by lingering notes of black pepper, bitter black tea, pine, and warm spices.
Comments:
The nose is truly elegant, though slightly delicate, but the palate leans heavily into the wood influence. Over-infused black tea dominates, followed by a hefty pinch of black pepper, with a noticeable lack of fruitiness and sweetness to balance it out. The thin mouthfeel, due to the low 43% ABV (if only Suntory considered raising it above 46%…), further detracts from the experience. It’s difficult to justify purchasing the Yamazaki 25-Year-Old unless the budget isn’t a concern. However, if you come across it at a whisky bar—or better yet, during a visit to the Yamazaki or Hakushu distillery in Japan – it’s absolutely worth trying.
Rating: 7/10
Hakushu 25-year-old (2024) Review
From what I’ve gathered, the Hakushu 25-Year-Old is matured in a combination of ex-sherry and ex-bourbon American oak casks before being bottled at 43% ABV. Pricing varies depending on the region, starting at around £3,000 in the UK and €4,500 in France, largely depending on the importer’s greed. As with the Yamazaki 25-Year-Old, your best option for a more competitive price is likely through reputable auction websites.
Colour:
Russet.
Nose:
Neat: The nose opens with fresh apples and pears, accompanied by a delicate wisp of smoke. Subtle notes of tropical fruits, such as mango and pineapple, emerge, layered with honey, eucalyptus, and earthy hints of forest floor. Menthol, leather, sandalwood and ripe plums.
Palate:
Neat: The palate carries a slightly more pronounced smoke than the nose, complemented by flavours of apricots, dates, figs, and melon. Herbal and floral notes emerge with hints of nasturtium, forest floor, and a spicy minty kick. Unfortunately, the mouthfeel feels a bit thin here as well.
Finish:
The finish is long, with lingering herbal and peppery notes, hints of hazelnuts, and a touch of smoke.
Comments:
I’ve always been a fan of Hakushu, and last year’s Hakushu 18-Year-Old Peated Malt was a fantastic way to celebrate Suntory’s 100th anniversary. Whilst the Hakushu 25-Year-Old doesn’t quite reach the same heights, it’s still a delightful whisky. With its lovely nose and palate, it avoids the bitterness found in the Yamazaki 25-Year-Old and comes at a slightly lower price – at least in France. That makes it an easier choice, though it’s still an incredibly expensive bottle, so you’ll need very deep pockets to indulge.
Rating: 8/10
Lead image courtesy of Nomunication.
