A few years ago, two friends and I co-founded the Rennes Whisky Club, just before Covid hit. We managed to hold one session before the first lockdown, and after that, nearly two years passed before we could meet again. Once things settled, we relaunched the club and have been hosting monthly tastings ever since – except for a break in July and August. Each session follows a chosen theme, typically featuring three whiskies within that category. Last night’s tasting focused on a fan-favourite distillery: Clynelish. On the menu were three Clynelish whiskies: the official 14-year-old, a 10-year-old Cataibh bottled by Chorlton Whisky, and a 2012 ‘Tropical Toothpaste’ from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society.
Clynelish 14-Year-Old Review
Not much is disclosed by Diageo about this Clynelish 14-year-old. Part of the very limited core range of the Brora-based distillery, we just know it’s coloured with E150, and aged for 14 years before being bottled at 46% ABV. Widely available, about £54/€55 depending on shops and offers.
Colour:
Old gold (fake).
Nose:
Neat: Stewed fruits and beeswax-polished wood lead the way, with subtle woody notes, though the aroma is initially a bit reserved. Given time in the glass (as it’s from a freshly opened bottle), fresh orchard fruits, honey, and white bread begin to emerge.
Palate:
Neat: A touch of coastal influence, balancing sweet and salty elements. Light pepper, zesty lemon, delicate herbaceous notes, chocolate, and a hint of coffee.
Finish:
Medium in length, with lingering pepper, gentle woody bitterness, and a burst of lemon juice.
Comments:
Always a pleasure, Clynelish 14-Year-Old is a fruity, lightly waxy dram that’s both easygoing and interesting – one you find yourself reaching for time and time again.
Rating: 6/10
Cataibh 10-year-old Chorlton Whisky Review
This secret Clynelish (Cataibh means Sutherland in Gaelic, the county Clynelish is located in) was distilled on July 28, 2010, and bottled by Chorlton Whisky in 2021 after 10 years of maturation in a single bourbon barrel. A total of 272 bottles were released at a cask strength of 58.6% ABV, with no added colouring or chill filtration. Sadly, it’s sold out.
Colour:
Yellow gold.
Nose:
Neat: Quite unexpected – bitter almonds, glue, and a hint of sulphur, reminiscent of a dirty Ben Nevis, with a touch of wax.
With water: Beef stock and coriander emerge, still carrying that gritty character but slightly tamed. A hint of lemon starts to peek through.
Palate:
Neat: Echoing the nose, it has that signature dirty Ben Nevis style with a waxy mouthfeel. Orchard fruits, lemon, grapefruit, and coffee.
With water: The mouthfeel becomes even waxier, with a light saltiness, pepper, Tabasco, and intense coffee notes.
Finish:
Long and waxy, with subtle citrus notes and roasted hazelnuts.
Comments:
This Cataibh 10-Year-Old from Chorlton Whisky is a tricky one to judge – I’m still unsure if I truly enjoy it or not. It improves significantly with a few drops of water but remains quite polarising. My rating comes with a caveat: depending on how you feel about its dirtiness, it could land anywhere between a 4 and a 6. So, let’s settle for the middle ground.
Rating: 5/10
Clynelish 2012 26,206 Tropical Toothpaste SMWS Review
This Clynelish, aptly named Tropical Toothpaste, was distilled on October 23, 2012, and matured for nine years in a first-fill ex-bourbon barrel before being bottled by the Scotch Malt Whisky Society (cask code 26,206). The cask produced 239 bottles at a robust 61.6% ABV, with no added colouring or chill filtration, as always. Like the Chorlton reviewed above, it’s now sold out.
Colour:
Pale gold.
Nose:
Neat: Herbaceous notes take the lead, with mint and a medley of fresh herbs. The intensity is noticeable, with the alcohol making its presence felt. True to its name, tropical fruits emerge – mango and pineapple – alongside hints of wood and candle wax.
With water: Still powerful, but now featuring more pronounced candle wax, beeswax, honeycomb, and marzipan.
Palate:
Neat: Tropical fruits carry through, with heavily peppered pineapple slices, roasted mango, and grapefruit. The mouthfeel is slightly waxy, complemented by resinous wood notes. With subsequent sips (or a sip of water), the waxiness intensifies, but so does the heat, as spices take centre stage. Herbaceous elements return with mint, fennel, and dry moss, alongside a touch of milk chocolate.
With water: The tropical fruit profile becomes even more vibrant – almost like a (strongly) spiked IPA.
Finish:
The heat lingers, but the flavours fade more quickly. Medium short, with wax, wood, and milk chocolate taking the final bow, though not for long.
Comments:
With a fitting name from the SMWS, this Clynelish 2012 Tropical Toothpaste offers a bold and intense take on the distillery’s style. Bursting with tropical fruits and herbaceous notes, it carries quite a bit of heat, but thankfully, it handles water well. A solid dram, and the clear winner for everyone who attended that Clynelish tasting.
Rating: 7/10
Thanks Nicolas & Benoît! Bottle photos courtesy of Whiskybase.
