Bottlers Archives - More Drams, Less Drama

Vaudon 75/78/80 Grape of the Art Cognac

3rd December 20243rd December 2024Coldorak

The second cognac from my 2024 Cognac Expert Advent Calendar is a multi-vintage Vaudon Lot 75/78/80, bottled by German independent bottler Grape of the Art. Vaudon’s estate spans 60 hectares, primarily in the Fins Bois region, the largest Cognac production area. Their history dates back to 1771 when François Gaborit passed the domain to his son-in-law, Pierre Nalbert. Significant expansion occurred in the 20th century under Denis and later Pierre Mousset. Further growth followed when Pierre Vaudon married Anne-Marie Mousset, uniting two winemaking families.

Vaudon produces both single-cru Fins Bois cognacs and multi-cru blends with the neighbouring Grande Champagne region. Today’s review focuses on this multi-vintage, single-cru Vaudon 75/78/80 Grape of the Art.

Signatory 100 Proof Exceptional Cask #1, #2 and #3

Aultmore / Glenburgie / Macduff 100 Proof Exceptional Casks Signatory Vintage

28th November 202427th November 2024Coldorak

Part of the recent and ever-growing series 100 proof from Signatory Vintage, the independent bottler released a few bottlings as an ‘Exceptional Cask’ subseries. We review the first three whiskies bottled in this series: an Aultmore 2007, a Glenburgie 2008 and a Macduff 2007 100 Proof Exceptional Casks, Edition #1 to 3, from Signatory Vintage.

Domaine de Charron 1996 2008 Swell de Spirits Bas-Armagnac

Domain de Charron 1996 & 2008 Swell de Spirits

22nd November 202422nd November 2024Coldorak

Although Domaine de Charron traces its origins back to the early 20th century, its journey into Armagnac production truly began decades later. In 1985, Fernand Lartigue considered uprooting the vines on his grandmother’s plot in Perquie. However, his sons, Claude and Jacques, stepped in to acquire the 2-hectare vineyard, preserving the Baco vines and reviving Armagnac production. The vineyard’s care was entrusted to a neighboring winemaker, whose expertise ensured the creation of high-quality, natural wines from the start.

Thanks to our friends at Swell de Spirits, I’ve received samples of two Domaine de Charron Armagnacs as part of a box featuring malternatives and spirits. Let’s dive into these two releases, Domaine de Charron 1996 and 2008, bottled by Swell de Spirits.

Teeling 21-Year-Old Rising Reserve No.3

19th October 202419th October 2024Coldorak

For a change, we’re reviewing a whiskey that’s actually still available and not already sold out, long gone, or marked up threefold on the secondary market. Hard to believe, right? Recently, I was working as an exhibitor for a Scottish independent bottler at the Nantes Spirits Festival, a whisky show. It has nothing to do with this Teeling, I know, but one of the perks of being an exhibitor is the chance to sample a few whiskies and malternatives before or after the event opens to the public—or even during a quick break. Who needs food when you can savour some good or even exceptional whiskies and cognacs, right? Anyway, while I was pouring my own whiskies for Baptiste Charron, the French Teeling ambassador, we got talking, and he introduced me to the Teeling 21-year-old Rising Reserve No.3, which I’m reviewing today. I was lucky enough to take a sample home with me to taste it again, with time and a fresh palate. But first…

Old Pulteney 12, 15, Flotilla and more

6th July 20246th July 2024Coldorak

Pulteney distillery, known for its whisky labelled Old Pulteney, was once the northernmost whisky distillery on mainland Scotland. However, this title was later taken by Wolfburn and then 8 Doors distillery. The northernmost whisky distillery in Scotland overall is Highland Park. In 1825, James Henderson, who had been distilling illegally in Stemster, moved to Pulteneytown to establish a legitimate whisky distillery. The Henderson family owned it for almost a century until selling it to Jas. Watson of Dundee in 1920. In 1922, Wick town council banned alcohol sales under the influence of an American evangelist, and by 1924, Old Pulteney was sold to John Dewar & Sons, eventually becoming part of DCL. The distillery closed in 1930 due to a market downturn and reopened in 1951, four years after the ban was lifted, when local businessman Robert ‘Bertie’ Cumming bought it. He sold it, along with Balblair, to Hiram Walker in 1955. Following a series of mergers, it became part of Allied Distillers, who sold it to Inver House in 1995 when it was in desperate need of repairs. In 2001, Pacific Spirits acquired Inver House, which was later purchased by Thailand’s International Beverage Holding in 2006. Today, we will sample several Old Pulteney whiskies from the core range, including the 12- and 15-year-old expressions, the 2012 Flotilla, a 2006 Vintage released for Global Travel Retail, and an independent bottling: a 2008 single cask bottled by Daily Dram.

Salamandre Plum & Pear Brandies Swell de Spirits

24th May 202424th May 2024Coldorak

These fruit-based eaux-de-vie, whilst less prevalent than grape-based brandies, were once popular but have since fallen out of favour. It’s unfortunate as they offer unique and flavourful spirits. In France, fruit eaux-de-vie represented only 0.3% of the total alcohol value in large retailers and a mere 0.2% in the trade network (bars, hotels, and restaurants) in 2022, with these numbers declining compared to previous years. Three to four decades ago, a 70 cl bottle of fruit brandy was primarily consumed directly after meals, but today, it’s more commonly used in gastronomy, accounting for 70% of its consumption, while direct tasting comprises the remaining 30%. There has been a significant decline in fruit brandy consumption during the 1990s and the 2010s, a product once associated with our great-grandparents. The rise of whisky in the market has shifted preferences and emphasised a desire to explore alternative spirits. This change reflects a generational shift. Nevertheless, there are still distilleries producing these fruit brandies. We will be tasting a plum brandy and a pear brandy from the Salamandre distillery, both bottled by Swell de Spirits, from which we recently reviewed two whiskies.

Glen Garioch 2015 and Secret Islay 2017 Swell de Spirits

21st May 202422nd May 2024Coldorak

A few weeks ago, we received a few samples from the French independent bottler Swell de Spirits, including a few whiskies. Today we try two of them: a Glen Garioch 2015 and a Secret Islay from a south shore distillery known for its eccentric marketing team and its yearly non-age-statement releases…

Port Ellen 33yo Boutique-y & 1983 Duncan Taylor

22nd March 202422nd March 2024Coldorak

In recent weeks, I found myself on the cusp of reaching my 2000th unique whisky tasting. As with any significant milestone, I craved a special celebratory dram. Fortunately, I had received a couple of Port Ellen samples from friends, making them the perfect candidates for my 1999th and 2000th whiskies.

But as Port Ellen distillery was to reopen its doors after a 40 years hiatus, my 2000th tasting was at risk of occurring amidst the bustling chaos of the Lyon Whisky Festival, where precise timing is nearly impossible due to a whisky festival’s frenetic pace. So, I decided to take an ultra-small sip of one of the Port Ellen whiskies right at the 2000th milestone. But fear not – I later savoured both whiskies properly on a serene Sunday morning. By that point, I had already surpassed 2050 drams tasted.

Picture this: the Palais de la Bourse in Lyon, bathed in morning light, almost empty except for myself and a dear friend, Aurélien, as the opening of the second day of the show was not yet to happen for the next 80 minutes. Together, we shared the experience of tasting these two remarkable whiskies: the 33-year-old Port Ellen Boutique-y and the 1983 Duncan Taylor. Our tasting notes were penned collaboratively, as we tried those whiskies together. Whisky is for sharing and drinking, after all.

Mortlach 15-Year-Old Gordon & Macphail (1970s & 2015)

12th March 202412th March 2024Coldorak

Reflecting on my initial discussion of Mortlach from three years prior (time flies!), I recall mentioning the need to delve into their 2.81 distillation process, potentially following an overview of distillation itself. It seems that slipped my mind! Nevertheless, I’ll share some insights into their distillation method shortly. Meanwhile, let’s juxtapose two iterations of Mortlach’s 15-year-old, bottled by Gordon & Macphail: a vintage edition from the 1970s and a more recent release from 2015.

Millburn 1978 Gordon & Macphail

9th March 20249th March 2024Coldorak

Millburn Distillery, Inverness’ eldest among three (with Glen Albyn and Glen Mhor), traces its origins to a farm distillery alongside a river powering mill wheels, likely predating legal recognition. Though achieving legal status between 1805 and 1807, it remained inactive. A revival in 1825, led by inexperienced owners, faltered amidst the 1823 Excise Act’s challenges, closing in the 1850s, reverting to a flour mill. Rekindled in the 1870s by David Rose, it flourished under his son George’s management until the Haigs acquired it in 1892. Passing through several hands, including Booth’s and DCL, it ceased operations in 1985 due to the whisky surplus. Attempts at revival were thwarted in 1990, with the site repurposed as ‘The Auld Distillery,’ yet the potential for a micro-distillery remains, a tribute to Inverness’ legacy. We try today a Millburn 1978 bottled by Gordon & Macphail.