The 2024 Cognac Expert Advent Calendar begins with Esprit, a Grande Champagne cognac from Claude Thorin. The Thorin story dates back to 1879, when the family vineyard was first established. Shortly after, phylloxera devastated much of the Charente region. In 1950, André Thorin replanted vines and began rebuilding the estate, initially focusing on parcels in Mainxe, part of the prestigious Grande Champagne cru.
Since the 1990s, Claude Thorin has expanded the estate to 84 hectares, introduced his own cognac range, and joined the independent winegrowers’ association. The property is located in Segonzac, at Biard. In 2021, a new generation – Elise and Mathilde – joined, with Elise overseeing production and Mathilde managing sales.
So, my first review of the month is for the Claude Thorin Esprit Grande Champagne Cognac. Let’s see if switching from my usual whisky advent calendar to a cognac one this year was a good choice!
Claude Thorin Esprit Grande Champagne Cognac Review
Claude Thorin’s Esprit is a Grande Champagne cognac made from Ugni Blanc grape and distilled in a 10 hectolitres still, with the lees. The cognac was matured for about 40 years in a cask made by Tonnellerie Taransaud, using wide grain oak with a medium-strong toast, and the cask was stored in a humid cellar. It is bottled at 43%, without any additive, and is available at Cognac Expert for about €560.
Colour:
Burnt umber.
Nose:
Neat: Oooh this starts well and luscious. Immediately some rancio and dried and stewed fruits, orange marmalade, figs, spices all sort (cumin, saffron, almost some curry). Despite the age it kept some nice freshness, but the wood is also present, with beautiful noble sandalwood and flowers.
Palate:
Neat: The palate beautifully follows the nose as most of the aromas are to be found in the palate. Rancio and sandalwood and orange marmalade intertwine with the stewed fruits and the figs, but there’s also dark chocolate, some fresh herbaceousness of eucalyptus and fennel, candied fruits (peach and apricots), a touch of butterscotch and hints of ginger. The mouthfeel is a little light unfortunately because of the relatively low ABV.
Finish:
Raisins, blood oranges, sandalwood with beeswax to protect it, fennel and eucalyptus, traces of espresso and blond tobacco, all of them lingering in a long finish.
Comments:
Beautiful start with this Claude Thorin Esprit Grande Champagne Cognac. This is bright, elegant, you can taste its age and refinement, but the cognac was not overwhelmed by the wood, far from it. It kept its fruitiness and freshness, and even though I would have loved a little more strength, it’s great they didn’t go to the classic 40% ABV as it would really have ruined the mouthfeel.
Rating: 7.5/10
Do keep in mind I’m not a cognac specialist (not that I should consider myself a whisky specialist either yet), so take my reviews with a grain of salt.
