As it turns out, among the cask types permitted for Scotch whisky maturation, maple syrup casks are not included in the approved list. This omission means that the spirit in question, despite its age and unique finishing process, cannot be legally labelled or sold as ‘Scotch whisky.’ Instead, it must be marketed simply as ‘whisky’ or potentially under a different category altogether. Back in 2020, Atom Labs struck again, and they released a 26-year-old whisky from a particularly famous origin into a cask that previously held maple syrup, and released it as a 26-year-old ‘just whisky’: the Defilement 26-year-old Maple Syrup Cask Finish.
The Limits of the Scotch Whisky Association Rules
The Scotch Whisky Association (SWA) has established strict regulations governing the production, labelling, and marketing of Scotch whisky. These rules, while preserving the integrity and quality of Scotch, have also led to limitations on innovation and creativity within the industry.
One of the most notable restrictions is the requirement that Scotch whisky must be aged for a minimum of three years in oak casks. This rule has prevented the release of younger spirits that might otherwise be marketed as whisky. Additionally, the regulations stipulate that only water and plain caramel colouring may be added to Scotch whisky, limiting the use of other additives or flavourings that could potentially create unique taste profiles.
The SWA’s rules have led to several instances where products had to be discontinued or couldn’t be labelled as Scotch whisky. A prominent example is Diageo’s attempt to release Cardhu Pure Malt in 2003. This product contained whisky from Cardhu Distillery along with whiskies from other single malt distilleries, but was packaged similarly to Cardhu Single Malt. The SWA and rival distillers objected, arguing that the labelling was deceptive and could mislead consumers. As a result, Diageo was forced to withdraw the product and revert to selling Cardhu as a single malt.
Another limitation imposed by the SWA rules relates to cask finishing. While the regulations were amended in 2019 to allow for a wider range of casks to be used for maturation, including those previously used for tequila or mezcal, there are still restrictions. For instance, casks that held drinks made with stone fruits or those with added flavourings or sweeteners after distillation are not permitted. This has led to some experimental whiskies being disqualified from the Scotch whisky category, forcing producers to market them under different names or categories.
The Glen Moray Cider Cask Project is an excellent example of a whisky that pushed the boundaries of Scotch whisky regulations. This experimental single malt was created by Glen Moray’s master distiller Graham Coull and released in 2018. The whisky was first aged in American oak ex-Bourbon barrels, then transferred to ex-Glen Moray casks that had been used to age Thistly Cross Scottish Cider for several months.
While this innovative approach resulted in a unique flavor profile with notes of apple, vanilla, and winter fruits, it also raised questions about its classification as Scotch whisky. The Scotch Whisky Association regulations are strict about the types of casks that can be used for maturing Scotch whisky, and cider casks are not typically included in this list.
The Glen Moray Cider Cask Project was marketed as a ‘Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky’, indicating that it managed to comply with SWA regulations despite its unconventional maturation process. However, its release was limited to only 2,000 bottles and was exclusive to the UK market, suggesting that the distillery may have been cautious about potential regulatory issues. They were not allowed to produce more of this expression after the first batch was sold, and the remaining casks were discreetly sold as handfills at the distillery’s visitor centre.
This whisky demonstrates the fine line that distillers must walk when experimenting with new techniques while still adhering to the strict SWA rules. While the Glen Moray Cider Cask Project was able to be called Scotch whisky, it highlights the ongoing debate within the industry about balancing tradition with innovation. The success of this experiment may encourage other distilleries to explore similar techniques, potentially leading to further discussions about expanding the allowed cask types for Scotch whisky maturation.
These limitations have sparked debate within the industry, with some arguing that the strict rules stifle innovation. Paul Miller, founder of Eden Mill distillery, has noted that the current regulations favor larger companies who can experiment with their non-Scotch whisky brands, potentially leading to missed opportunities for innovation within the Scotch whisky category. However, proponents of the rules argue that they are essential for maintaining the reputation and quality of Scotch whisky in the global market.
In the end, while I acknowledge that these regulations are fundamental to preserving the essence and identity of Scotch whisky, I can’t help but question the recent additions to the list of permitted cask types. The inclusion of mezcal and tequila casks, seemingly influenced by the lobbying power of major whisky conglomerates, appears somewhat inconsistent. These additions are no more traditional in Scotch whisky production than cider or maple syrup casks, which remain prohibited.
This decision highlights a potential imbalance in the industry, where larger companies may have a disproportionate influence on shaping regulations. It raises questions about the true motivations behind these rule changes and whether they genuinely serve to maintain the integrity of Scotch whisky or simply cater to commercial interests of industry giants.
While innovation is crucial for any industry to evolve, it’s important to consider whether these particular changes align with the spirit of Scotch whisky tradition or if they potentially open the door to further departures from its core identity. This situation underscores the ongoing challenge of balancing tradition, innovation, and commercial interests in the Scotch whisky industry.
Defilement 26-Year-Old Maple Syrup Cask Finish Review
Based on the label description, one might surmise that ‘Single Malt Scotch’ could fit perfectly before ‘whisky’ at the top of the label, and ‘Highland Park’ could be placed under the redacted parts in the middle, just before ‘Distillery’. This speculation is supported by subtle hints and a playful reference to a certain bearded individual associated with the brand. This whisky underwent an intriguing maturation process. After its initial aging, it received a finishing period in a Pedro Ximénez sherry octave cask that had previously held maple syrup. This unconventional cask finish disqualifies the spirit from being labelled as Scotch whisky, as maple syrup casks are not among the permitted cask types for Scotch whisky maturation. This Defilement whisky is bottled at 47.9% ABV. However, there is no information provided regarding the use of colouring, chill filtration, or whether the bottling strength matches the cask strength. Despite these uncertainties, the whisky remains available for purchase at a premium price of £350 per bottle.
Colour:
Dark copper.
Nose:
Neat: The aroma is predominantly fruity and slightly prickly, with prominent notes of oranges, ginger, pears, and green apples. There’s a coastal element, reminiscent of oysters and sea breeze, complemented by a subtle touch of vanilla extract.
Palate:
Neat: Whilst the maple syrup influence was not apparent in the nose, it makes a distinct appearance on the palate, offering a delightful woody sweetness. The flavour profile is rich, featuring dark berries and red fruits (raspberry, blackcurrants, blueberries), accompanied by warm spices. There’s a notable woody character (reminiscent of maple, though I admit to not having licked maple trees for comparison!) Honey and sandalwood, and a soft, light heathery peat provides a subtle smoky backdrop.
Finish:
The finish is characterised by a pleasant spicy heat that lingers, intertwined with the sweetness of maple syrup and honey. As these flavours fade, they give way to a drying sensation, accompanied by notes of raw wood.
Comments:
This whisky is a delightful departure from the norm. While the 26 years of Highland Park influence may be somewhat obscured by the sweetness of both the maple syrup and Pedro Ximénez cask finishing, the resulting ‘Defilement’ whisky is undeniably enjoyable. It’s a unique, original, and tasty dram that I find quite appealing. The high price tag is the only thing preventing me from purchasing a bottle.
This experience has piqued my interest in trying Sortilège, a Canadian whisky infused with maple syrup. Although it’s ultimately a lower-ABV (30%) spirit drink, the concept is intriguing, and I’m curious to explore the flavours of Canadian whisky and maple syrup.
Rating: 7/10
* I know, bird & beard are not pronounced the same in English, but put that on my French accent.
Thanks to that little bearded bird, let’s call him Mr. S. Bottle picture stolen on Master of Malt for once..
