The Hidden Distillery: The Language of Undisclosed Whisky

The Hidden Distillery: The Language of Undisclosed Whisky

Independent bottlers are usually associated with transparency. They tell us the vintage, age, cask number, cask type, outturn, and strength, sometimes even the exact dates of distillation and bottling. In some cases, an independent bottling tells you considerably more about the whisky than an official bottle from the same distillery. And then, occasionally, it tells you almost everything except where the whisky was actually distilled.

Secret Speyside. An Orkney Distillery. An Islay Single Malt. Secret Highland. Williamson. Westport. Wardhead. Burnside.

Sometimes the distillery is genuinely difficult to identify. Sometimes everybody in whisky seems to know what it is, while nobody involved in selling the bottle will actually write the name down. And sometimes what looks like an undisclosed single malt isn’t legally a single malt at all.

Welcome to one of the stranger languages of independent whisky.

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Irish Single Malt Whiskey #1 15yo batch 6 TBWC

Irish #1 15yo Batch 6 That Boutique-y Whisky Company

For several years now—though the exact starting point is unclear to me—the English retailer Master of Malt has organised its Whisky Santa event. Participants send their whisky wishes through social media for a chance to win, with some exceptional bottles chosen by the team at MoM as special prizes. Occasionally, this humble author took a chance, fully aware that winning seemed unlikely due to residing in France and the shipping restrictions caused by Brexit. Despite this, I continued to participate, and Whisky Santa eventually granted my wish at the end of last year by sending the Boutique-y Whisky Company 2024 Advent Calendar.

Since Whisky Santa could not ship directly to France—something about elves with outdated passports and a sled under repair—the calendar arrived at a trusted friend’s address. Coincidentally, that friend happens to be Dave Worthington, Boutique-y Whisky’s own brand ambassador. When we met again in London at the end of May, during a short trip with my children, the opportunity arose to collect all the whisky previously sent to Dave due to similar shipping challenges.

As this calendar now belongs to last year, and with plans to explore a Cognac advent calendar this year, I’ve decided to open it outside the traditional season. The tasting will not follow the original order; instead, some drams will be grouped together for review. For now, I’ll skip door number one and instead reveal door number two, which contained an Irish Single Malt Whiskey #1, 15-year-old Batch 6 from That Boutique-y Whisky Company.

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Usquaebach 15yo and Commonwealth Games 13yo

Usquaebach 15yo and 1986 Commonwealth Games 13yo

Today we explore miniatures I bought a few years ago but never got to, as I forgot about them in one of my whisky sample drawers. The first one is a Highland blended malt by Cobalt Brands, and the other one an undisclosed single malt bottled in 1986 by Eaglesome Ltd: let’s review the Usquaebach 15yo and 1986 Commonwealth Games 13yo.

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Defilement 26-year-old Maple Syrup Cask Finish

Defilement 26-Year-Old Maple Syrup Cask Finish

As it turns out, among the cask types permitted for Scotch whisky maturation, maple syrup casks are not included in the approved list. This omission means that the spirit in question, despite its age and unique finishing process, cannot be legally labelled or sold as ‘Scotch whisky.’ Instead, it must be marketed simply as ‘whisky’ or potentially under a different category altogether. Back in 2020, Atom Labs struck again, and they released a 26-year-old whisky from a particularly famous origin into a cask that previously held maple syrup, and released it as a 26-year-old ‘just whisky’: the Defilement 26-year-old Maple Syrup Cask Finish.

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