Calvados is a brandy from the Normandy region of France, crafted from apples and sometimes pears. The spirit dates back to 1553, when the first known Norman distillation occurred. About 50 years later, the guild for cider distillation was created. Calvados got its protected name in 1942. The production of Calvados begins in the orchard, where cider apples, known for their richness in tannins, are harvested. Unlike regular apples, cider fruits are small. There are roughly 300 varieties of apples that Calvados producers can use. After harvest, the apples are mashed and pressed to extract the juice, which is then fermented into cider. This cider is then distilled to separate the alcohol from the water. Depending on the appellation, either a pot still or a column still is used for distillation. The resulting eau-de-vie is then aged in oak casks for a minimum of two years before being sold as Calvados. We review two Calvados from Swell de Spirits, a now well-known French independent bottler.
Calvados Pays d’Auge
Calvados Pays d’Auge is a prestigious appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) for apple brandy produced in the Pays d’Auge region of Normandy. This specific type of Calvados is distinguished by its strict production requirements and unique terroir. The Calvados Pays d’Auge appellation extends over the eastern part of the Calvados department and includes some neighbouring communes in the Orne and Eure departments. The region is characterised by shallow clay-limestone soils on slopes and an oceanic climate with a low range of temperatures.
The requirements for the Calvados Pays d’Auge appellation are:
- Fruit composition: At least 70% of the apples used must be bitter and bittersweet varieties, with a maximum of 30% perry pears allowed.
- Orchard type: At least 45% of the fruit must come from high stem orchards.
- Distillation method: The use of a pot still (discontinued distillation) is mandatory, unlike other Calvados appellations.
- Ageing: The spirit must be aged in oak barrels for a minimum of two years before it can be sold as Calvados Pays d’Auge
Calvados Drouin 17-Year-Old Mars Cask Finish Swell de Spirits Review
We start with a Christian Drouin Calvados Pays d’Auge, 17 years old, that underwent a Mars Cask Finish. It was selected and bottled by Swell de Spirits at cask strength (50.6% ABV), with a yield of just 150 bottles (with their usual 500 ml). Still available in a couple shops across France and Belgium for €110 a bottle.
Colour:
Tawny.
Nose:
Neat: Initially, apples dominate with subtle menthol undertones. Over time, the aroma evolves, revealing fresh dough, apricots in syrup, quince, and faint woody notes.
With water: The nose warms up, reminiscent of a freshly baked tart tatin
Palate:
Neat: The palate begins with a robust Calvados and spice character, offering a prickly yet creamy mouthfeel. Flavours of apple are prominent, accompanied by lemon juice, dark chocolate, coffee, grapefruit, and a hint of bitter caramel.
With water: Reduction enhances the lemon and sour apple notes, with a more pronounced oak presence.
Finish:
A lingering finish featuring spices, sour apples, oak, and grapefruit juice.
Comments:
Christian Drouin is a famous name in the world of Calvados, and the Drouin 17-year-old Mars Cask Finish, bottled by Swell de Spirits, certainly upholds this esteemed reputation. While I am no Calvados connoisseur, I enjoyed this Calvados. Despite my inexperience, which prevented me from discerning the subtle influence of the whisky cask finish, the enjoyment was undeniable.
Rating: 7/10
Calvados Lot 91 Prunier Wet Cellar Swell de Spirits Review
This is a 33-year-old Calvados, Lot 91, selected from Maison Prunier’s cellar (yes, they’re mostly known for their cognac). It comes from a closed distillery and was aged in French Oak in a damp cellar, before being selected and bottled by Swell de Spirits. The bottles were filled at 47.4% ABV, at cask strength, with only 150 bottles available, each 500ml. Around €230 a bottle, still available in a few shops.
Colour:
Old oak.
Nose:
Neat: Aromas of varnished wood, aged apples, apple cider, eucalyptus, fern, a hint of empty aerosol, and unlit cigar.
Palate:
Neat: Flavours of various apples (cooked, roasted, stewed), apple cider vinegar, and a strong wood influence. Notes of mint, eucalyptus, fennel, tarte tatin and brown sugar, followed by pepper and tabasco heat. Wood varnish is also prominent.
Finish:
Flavours of apple caramel, cider, orange peel, and camomile tea, with a medium-length finish.
Comments:
This Lot 91 Calvados from Maison Prunier’s cellar and bottled by Swell de Spirits is an intriguing spirit, reminiscent of both Calvados and aged Armagnac, further enhanced by a unique and appealing varnished wood note. Really lovely.
