Auchroisk remains one of the most enigmatic names in the whisky world (and not the easiest to pronounce correctly). Its presence outside of blends is almost ghostlike – with not even a website anymore, worse even than when its official website offered barely more than a placeholder, as observed in our last review of an independent Auchroisk bottling back in 2019. Founded in the 1970s mainly to supply malt for J&B blends, this Speyside distillery has long flown under the radar, producing the bulk of its spirit for high-volume blended whiskies rather than shining as a single malt star. The latest official bottling I could find on Whiskybase is the 10-year-old in Diageo’s Flora & Fauna collection, but the latest one goes back to 2022. Fortunately, independently bottled Auchroisk expressions, such as these three Auchroisk from That Boutique-y Whisky Co, Van Wees, and A. D. Rattray, have allowed us to get glimpses into the character of this often-overlooked distillery.
Auchroisk 19-year-old Batch 6 That Boutique-y Whisky Company (2018) Review
We begin with a 19-year-old Batch 6 Auchroisk from That Boutique-y Whisky Company. Bottled at 49.4% ABV – identical to Batch 5 in both age and ABV, shown in the accompanying photo as Batch 6 images are elusive – this whisky is unchillfiltered and free from added colour. This was likely bottled in 2018, similar to Batch 5, or at the latest in 2019, given we reviewed Batch 7 back in 2019. This Batch 6 release appears to be sold out, as availability and information are now scarce.
Colour:
Between white wine and pale straw.
Nose:
Neat: The nose opens with a gentle sweetness, dominated by caramel, before fresh citrus notes emerge, notably squeezed lemon juice. This leads into a medley of fruit aromas, including orange, pomelo, and a hint of pineapple, accompanied by delicate touches of orange blossom water, honey, and a few hazelnuts.
Palate:
Neat: Oh, this is quite nice. Flavours of ripe mango, lemon, orange, green apple, and strawberry dance together, balanced by a pinch of pepper and a mild bitterness. The wood influence is subtle, while a cooling hint of eucalyptus and strong menthol candy add freshness.
Finish:
The finish is long and refreshing, with lingering citrus and menthol notes, accented by a gentle peppery spice that invites another sip.
Comments:
This is a very good Auchroisk – fresh and vibrant, with a distinctive fruitiness that brings an inviting brightness to the glass. It showcases a lovely balance of tartness and peppery spice, giving it a lively character that is both approachable and engaging. The combination makes it particularly refreshing and enjoyable.
Rating: 7/10
Auchroisk 1990 vanWees (2013) Review
The second Auchroisk in this trio was distilled on 20 February 1990 and later bottled by van Wees as part of their The Ultimate collection on 11 January 2013, at 22 years of age. It matured in an ex-bourbon hogshead, cask number 3659, before being reduced to 46% ABV for bottling, without chill filtration or added colour. The final outturn after reduction to 46% was 334 bottles. While a German retailer still lists it at €169, it appears to be available for somewhat less on secondary platforms like the Whiskybase marketplace.
Colour:
Jonquille
Nose:
Neat: The nose opens with a distinct sharpness, presenting notes of walnut oil, gentle oak, and hazelnuts alongside a subtle lactic hint reminiscent of blue cheese. After some aeration, the sharper notes mellow and give way to ripe fruits – peaches and plums – accented by a touch of cinnamon, while the cheesy aroma fades.
Palate:
Neat: On the palate, this Auchroisk takes on a more classic profile. Citrus fruits lead, blending with plums and a few apple notes. A hint of grapefruit adds brightness, followed by caramel sweetness and a light touch of oak spices. The mouthfeel is notably creamy.
Finish:
The finish is characterised by peppery spice and oak, with lingering citrus fruits that leave a pleasant tartness on the tongue.
Comments:
This is a very nice Auchroisk, showing a fresh and lively character. The fruit notes are well expressed, lending a juicy brightness, while a pleasant tartness keeps the whisky vibrant. The pepperiness adds a subtle spice that enhances complexity without overpowering. Though it doesn’t quite reach the same level of charm as the Boutique-y bottling, it remains an enjoyable dram with its own distinct appeal.
Rating: 6.5/10
Auchroisk 1991 A.D. Rattray (2013) Review
The third and final Auchroisk presented here is a single cask from 1991, bottled by A. D. Rattray. Distilled on 26 April 1991, it was matured for 21 years in ex-bourbon hogshead #7532 before bottling at cask strength (56.6% ABV) on 21 January 2013. It was bottled without chill filtration or added colour. From this cask, 244 bottles were produced. A few bottles remain available at Malt-whisky.ch, priced at CHF 215 each.
Colour:
Old gold.
Nose:
Neat: The nose opens with bright fruit notes – tinned pineapple, ripe apricots, juicy peaches, and a touch of kiwi. These fruity aromas are complemented by a rich layer of caramel and forest honey, balanced with a light woody sharpness.
With water: With water, the nose gains an intense presence of vanilla pods, while the rest of the nose remains largely unchanged.
Palate:
Neat: The mouthfeel is syrupy and thick, with the palate delivering immediate intensity. Flavours of bitter orange marmalade mingle with a gentle chilli pepper heat. The wood influence is more pronounced, supported by subtle honey and lemon notes in the background. A good dash of pepper and wood spices completes the palate.
With water: The spice intensity increases but remains well balanced, supported by a subtle sweetness of butterscotch.
Finish:
The finish offers lingering notes of lemon, oak, and pepper, with hints of butterscotch and toffee. It is medium length with a delicate wood-driven bitterness that fades gently.
Comments:
The elevated ABV of 56.6% on this 1991 Auchroisk from A. D. Rattray brings impressive intensity without overwhelming the enjoyment, striking a nearly ideal balance for this dram. It offers noticeably more fruitiness and brightness than the van Wees bottling, accompanied by a slightly stronger wood influence, suggesting a more active cask. Overall, it is a very good whisky. However, given current prices of around £200/€230/$270 per bottle, the value is questionable – though this is unlikely to be an issue, as the Swiss retailer still listing it does not ship internationally.