We launch the second week of the Cognac-Expert 2025 Advent Calendar with an exciting debut: with the Bertrand XO Carafe Cognac, a nearly 300-year-old house making its first appearance on More Drams. Presented in a superb and elegant decanter – a vessel I rarely champion over classic bottles, yet this one commands genuine admiration – the question remains whether the cognac within matches the refinement of its presentation.
Cognac Bertrand History
The Bertrand family established their cognac legacy in 1731 when ancestors acquired the Bel Air windmill in Réaux, combining milling and viticulture operations. They strategically positioned themselves in Petite Fine Champagne, one of Cognac’s two premier crus, cultivating approximately 82 hectares of vineyard holdings on the Domaine de Brissons de Laage.
A transformative moment arrived when Raymond Bertrand married Simone Vallet in 1949, uniting two established wine families. Together they merged the Domaine des Brissons with the Vallet family’s Domaine de Laage, creating the unified Domaine de Brissons de Laage. Raymond became the house’s emblematic figure, pioneering wood-fired distillation methods and establishing rigorous aging protocols that earned the family regional respect. He managed the estate until his death in 1990, leaving behind cellars filled with eaux-de-vie aged 30 to 50 years or more.
For decades, Bertrand maintained a significant business relationship with Hennessy, selling the majority of their production to the global cognac giant. Only recently did the family begin bottling cognac under their own brand, transitioning from primary supplier to independent producer while maintaining their commitment to quality over quantity.
Today, family members, including Thérèse Bertrand and Seph Hall steward the tradition established nearly three centuries ago, managing vineyards and curating cellars for releases like the Héritage N°2–a 50-year-old expression from eaux-de-vie set aside during the 1960s, released in limited quantities of 500 bottles.
Bertrand XO Carafe Cognac (2025) Review
This Bertrand XO is a Petite Champagne cognac, distilled from Ugni Blanc and Colombard grapes grown on the Petite Champagne cru. The eaux-de-vie aged for 30 years in two old 400 litre barrels made from wide grain oak with a medium-plus toast. The cognac matured in Bertrand’s damp ‘new cellar’, before it was bottled in those superb decanters. Around €125 a bottle, try Cognac-Expert for instance.
Colour:
Cider.
Nose:
Neat: The nose presents as somewhat reserved and lacking intensity, though it radiates warmth nonetheless. Light whiffs of nutmeg and cashew emerge alongside soft wood, a hint of cedar, Zante currants, and plums – though the overall nose remains genuinely understated.
Palate:
Neat: The palate, fortunately, demonstrates considerably more vigour. Varnished wood and cocoa beans take centre stage, complemented by hints of mirabelles, dark chocolate, and Italian espresso, while blueberries, blackberries, Zante currants, and gooseberries add subtle fruity layers.
Finish:
The finish opens with sweetness before evolving into spice – ginger and pepper – then pivots toward bitterness with woody and grapefruit notes. From there, the finish gracefully transitions toward orange-infused chocolate, delivering considerable length with a slightly astringent conclusion.
Comments:
The reticent nose proves disappointing given what unfolds on the palate and finish, which both deliver genuine merit. The berry register particularly captivates – those light blueberries, blackberries, and currants strike an elegant equilibrium between acidity and sweetness, neither overwhelming the other. Yet the finish emerges as the expression’s true triumph, lingering impressively with a gradually developing light astringency that layers beautifully over citrusy undertones, creating a memorable conclusion that elevates the entire tasting experience.
Rating: 6.5/10
Advent calendar provided by Cognac-Expert