It’s hard to believe that a whole year has passed since we last delved into the world of independent Bowmore bottlings. The anticipation of exploring these unique expressions has only grown, and today, we find ourselves with the perfect opportunity to revisit this iconic Islay distillery through the lens of two exceptional single casks. Both of these whiskies, bottled by independent connoisseurs, were released in 2020 and have been carefully matured in bourbon casks. As we embark on this tasting (short) journey, it’s worth noting the unique position that Bowmore holds within the pantheon of Islay distilleries. Founded in 1779, it is one of the oldest distilleries on the island and has a rich history of innovation and craftsmanship. Despite its historical significance, Bowmore is often overshadowed by some of its more prominent neighbours, such as Ardbeg and Laphroaig. However, for those who take the time to explore its offerings, Bowmore reveals itself to be a distillery of exceptional quality and character. Most especially amongst its independent bottlings, as we’re not always as lucky with its official expressions.
Bowmore 2002 The Character of Islay Whisky Co. (2020) Review
We start with a 17-year-old single malt single cask from the Bowmore distillery, bottled by The Character of Islay Whisky Company (TCIWC), and selected by La Maison du Whisky. It is part of the ‘The Stories of Wind & Wave’ bottling series. Distilled in 2002, this whisky has been aged for 17 years and is bottled at a cask strength of 54.9% ABV, natural colour and without chill filtration. It seems there’s one bottle left at Bacchus & Tradition for a hefty €409 (it was originally released around €350).
Colour:
Jonquille.
Nose:
Neat: Intense and far-reaching, with strong coastal notes of seaweed, iodine, sea breeze, and crushed shells. Accompanied by wet pebbles, smoked lemons, and ashes, presenting a clean and classic Bowmore profile.
With water: After reduction, the nose evokes seawater from an oyster, engine oil and linseed oil, offering an austere yet appealing character.
Palate:
Neat: The palate features ashes and lemons, with a lovely peat presence. Medicinal notes of gauze and antiseptics are complemented by a touch of wood and a pleasant minerality reminiscent of sandstone and pebbles. A generous pinch of pepper adds a kick, while hints of pineapple, mango, and green bananas provide a tropical twist. The mouthfeel is dry and the palate is slightly austere, yet enjoyable.
With water: Tropical fruits become more prominent, with passion fruit, mango, papaya, and white peach. The smoke is thicker, and the mouthfeel turns slightly chalky.
Finish:
The finish is long; it lingers with saline peat, smoked herbs, blood oranges and coal.
Comments:
A delightfully dry and clean Bowmore, showcasing a stunning medicinal and coastal peat profile. With time and a few drops of water, notes of lemons and tropical fruits emerge. While it may not appeal to every palate, Bowmore enthusiasts will appreciate it as a quintessential example of the distillery’s pure character.
Rating: 8/10
Bowmore 2000 WhiskySponge Edition No. 12 (2020) Review
This 20-year-old Bowmore 2000 is the 12th cask bottled by Whisky Sponge under that name. It spent its maturation in a first-fill bourbon barrel until 2020, when it was bottled at 51.7% ABV, without added colouring or chill filtration. The cask yielded 172 bottles, some of which are still available – but at a steep markup. Originally priced around €295 in France, it now commands £500 or more.
Colour:
Jonquille.
Nose:
Neat: More reserved than the 2002 TCIWC, with similarities in tropical fruit notes like pineapple and mango. Coastal notes are present but less intense, offering a clean and mineral Bowmore profile with reduced peat influence.
With water: Reduction reveals dried herbs, tea leaves, olives, and dried fish.
Palate:
Neat: Less peated but fruitier than the 2002, featuring salt, diluted lemon juice, and olive brine. Notes of liquorice wood, ashes, coal, fresh gauze, linen, bandages, wet pebbles, and hints of instant coffee.
With water: After reduction, the palate delivers a delicious smoky fruitiness, emphasising smoked lemons, pepper, and crushed walnuts.
Finish:
The finish is long, offering a spicy warmth with lemon peel, herbs, and ashy smoke.
Comments:
Another delightful Bowmore, slightly less intense than the Character of Islay but with a brighter palate featuring lovely smoked lemons. This cask selected and bottled by WhiskySponge is another excellent choice.
