This week opens with two Grande Champagne cognacs, specially selected and bottled by Malternative Belgium last year – both now, regrettably, sold out. Grande Champagne represents the premier cru of Cognac, renowned for producing spirits of remarkable elegance and complexity, as we’ve seen many times in these pages. Malternative Belgium, an independent bottler with a reputation for consistently high-quality selections, is also celebrated for bringing outstanding casks to enthusiasts, and has yet to disappoint even the most discerning palates. I don’t remember reading a bad review from a Cognac they bottled. Given this pedigree, expectations run high for both the Paul Beau Lot 70 and François Voyer Lot 90 Malternative Belgium we’re reviewing today.
Paul Beau Lot 70 Grande Champagne Malternative Belgium (2024) Review
The Paul Beau cognac estate is a true family venture, spanning five generations since its founding by Samuel Beau in the late 19th century in the heart of Grande Champagne. After Samuel, his son Paul Beau expanded the estate and modernised production, but maintained traditional distilling practices. The Beau family operated for many decades by supplying matured Cognacs to larger houses before launching their own brand in 1977. Following Paul Beau’s death, the estate passed to Michel and Guy Laurichesse, with Michel marrying one of Paul’s adopted daughters. Today, Olivier Laurichesse, Guy’s son, leads the domain alongside his wife Léa as the fifth generation, managing over 120 hectares of vines across Segonzac, Verrières, and Roissac. Olivier Laurichesse worked for twelve years at the family estate before founding his own cognac company, Laurichesse, with Léa in 2015. The link between Paul Beau and Laurichesse is deep and generational: both brands are run by the Laurichesse family, with Olivier bridging the legacy of Paul Beau and his own Laurichesse bottlings (from which we tried a superb single cask). The houses share vineyards, cellars, craftsmanship, and a dedication to Grande Champagne.
This Paul Beau Lot 70 Grande Champagne Cognac was bottled in 2024 by Malternative Belgium as their release number 36, under the name ’En danseuse’ (meaning ’as a dancer’). The release comprises 290 bottles filled at natural strength, precisely 43.11% ABV, with natural colour and no chill filtration. Unfortunately, this edition is now sold out.
Colour:
Russet.
Nose:
Neat: The nose shows exotic aromas such as lychee and dried apricots, with lacquered wood notes like teak present. Aeration introduces subtle scents of dried mangoes. Fresh floral notes and hints of dried mushrooms are noticeable, together with crystallised dark honey, sliced almonds, and a touch of limestone.
Palate:
Neat: The palate presents a delicate yet assertive profile, delivering flavours of peaches and apples highlighted by pepper, cinnamon, and a trace of nutmeg. Dried flowers, dark honey, exotic woods, walnuts, and dried tobacco contribute further complexity.
Finish:
Peppermint and fruity tea characterise the finish, with a gentle bitterness and dryness on the gums. The impression lingers for a medium-long duration.
Comments:
Malternative Belgium has made another excellent selection with this Paul Beau Lot 70 Grande Champagne Cognac. The complexity stands out with beautiful layers of dried fruits and exotic notes, confirming the keen eye Pieter Knapen and Ysatis Thijs have for discovering and bottling exceptional gems.
Rating: 8/10
François Voyer Lot 90 Grande Champagne Malternative Belgium (2024) Review
François Voyer Lot 90 Grande Champagne was bottled by Malternative Belgium in 2024 at cask strength (47.8% ABV), without added colour or chill filtration. This release is Malternative Belgium’s #34 Cognac, bearing the name ’L’âge de ma femme’ (’my wife’s age’) as a tribute to Ysatis, one half of the Pieter and Ysatis duo who run Malternative Belgium. The edition was limited to 402 bottles, all of which appear to be sold out.
Colour:
Tawny.
Nose:
Neat: Tropical fruit aromas are pronounced, with mango, pineapple, banana, and papaya featuring prominently. Apricots and syrupy peaches follow, along with floral notes of jasmine tea and orange blossom. Cedar, sandalwood, and dried flower petals provide subtle woody undertones.
Palate:
Neat: The palate displays abundant fruit flavours, including peaches, lychees, melon, apricots, and tart notes from grapefruit, lime, and orange peel. Dark honey, tobacco, dark chocolate, and sandalwood add depth, complimented by a velvety mouthfeel. Cinnamon and pepper bring additional spiciness.
Finish:
Fruit notes and pepper fade gradually, with enduring warmth. Citrus peel and wood contribute light bitterness, and eucalyptus and mint leaves emerge as the finish extends.
Comments:
The Paul Beau previously sampled set a high standard, but this younger François Voyer even surpasses it. Over three decades in wood allowed this cognac to mature beautifully, maintaining brightness and freshness while delivering impressive power without being overwhelming. It is a superb selection. Last year’s Cognac Expert Advent Calendar concluded with a stunning François Voyer, and this release stands on an equally elevated level.
Rating: 8.5/10
Big thanks to Pieter and Ysatis for the samples.