Independent Bottler Archives - More Drams, Less Drama

Scotch & Sherry SMWS

21st February 202520th February 2025Coldorak

In 2024, The Scotch Malt Whisky Society (SMWS) released a documentary exploring the intricate relationship between Scotch whisky and sherry. This documentary, titled “Scotch & Sherry: A Flavour Odyssey,” takes viewers on a journey from SMWS headquarters in Leith to the oak forests of Galicia and the Sherry Triangle in Andalucia. The film delves into the process of creating sherry cask-matured whisky and introduces the artisans behind both the casks and the sherry used in the maturation process.

Accompanying this documentary, SMWS has curated a tasting pack featuring three whisky samples and two sherry samples (one Oloroso and one Pedro Ximénez). Let’s review the three whiskies, but skip on the sherries.

Two Calvados From Swell de Spirits

19th February 202518th February 2025Coldorak

Calvados is a brandy from the Normandy region of France, crafted from apples and sometimes pears. The spirit dates back to 1553, when the first known Norman distillation occurred. About 50 years later, the guild for cider distillation was created. Calvados got its protected name in 1942. The production of Calvados begins in the orchard, where cider apples, known for their richness in tannins, are harvested. Unlike regular apples, cider fruits are small. There are roughly 300 varieties of apples that Calvados producers can use. After harvest, the apples are mashed and pressed to extract the juice, which is then fermented into cider. This cider is then distilled to separate the alcohol from the water. Depending on the appellation, either a pot still or a column still is used for distillation. The resulting eau-de-vie is then aged in oak casks for a minimum of two years before being sold as Calvados. We review two Calvados from Swell de Spirits, a now well-known French independent bottler.

Defilement 26-Year-Old Maple Syrup Cask Finish

17th February 202515th February 2025Coldorak

As it turns out, among the cask types permitted for Scotch whisky maturation, maple syrup casks are not included in the approved list. This omission means that the spirit in question, despite its age and unique finishing process, cannot be legally labelled or sold as ‘Scotch whisky.’ Instead, it must be marketed simply as ‘whisky’ or potentially under a different category altogether. Back in 2020, Atom Labs struck again, and they released a 26-year-old whisky from a particularly famous origin into a cask that previously held maple syrup, and released it as a 26-year-old ‘just whisky’: the Defilement 26-year-old Maple Syrup Cask Finish.

Three 1987 to 1991 Indy Bunnahabhain

14th February 202513th February 2025Coldorak

I can’t believe I haven’t reviewed any Bunnahabhain on More Drams yet. Bunnahabhain Distillery, located on the northeastern coast of Islay, Scotland, has a storied history that reflects the evolution of the Scotch whisky industry. Founded in 1881 by William Robertson and the Greenlees brothers, Bunnahabhain was established to create a distinctive whisky that would stand apart from its heavily peated neighbours. The distillery’s name, derived from the Scottish Gaelic ‘Bun na h-Abhainne,’ translates to ‘Mouth of the River,’ highlighting its scenic location near the River Margadale. For a first post regarding that distillery, we’ll review three 1987 to 1991 indy bottlings of Bunnahabhain, but first, let’s quickly talk about their history.

Port Askaig 17-Year-Old

5th February 20254th February 2025Coldorak

Port Askaig, a label of Islay single malts under the ownership of Elixir Distillers, is known for bottling undisclosed Caol Ila, Laphroaig, and Bunnahabhain whiskies under its name. The origin of the whisky depended on the age statement, indicating one of those distilleries. However, in October 2023, Port Askaig underwent a transformation, introducing new bottles, labels, and focusing on three releases: their flagship, the pre-existing 8-year-old, and two limited editions – a Cask Strength No Age Statement (NAS) and the Port Askaig 17-Year-Old. Today, we are reviewing the latter expression.

The Cairn CRN57° 30-Year-Old

4th February 20253rd February 2025Coldorak

The Cairn Distillery, nestled in the Cairngorms National Park near Grantown-on-Spey, represents a £25 million investment by fourth-generation family business Gordon & MacPhail, known for reviving Benromach Distillery in 1998. As the first new distillery built in the park since its establishment, it combines cutting-edge architecture with reverence for its dramatic Highland surroundings, featuring floor-to-ceiling windows that frame views of the Cairngorm mountains and River Spey. While the first spirit flowed in 2022 – described as medium-bodied with sweet malt and vibrant fruit notes – the inaugural single malt won’t bottle until the mid-2030s. This extended maturation reflects Gordon & MacPhail’s legacy of patient cask management, with initial fills stored off-site. Since their own single malts won’t be released for years and decades, The Cairn released a series of blended malts, called CRN57 (named for the 57th parallel latitude), in order to preview the distillery’s future single malt character through expressions aged 12 to 70 years. Let’s review the one in the middle: The Cairn CRN57 30-year-old.

Longmorn 16-year-old & 1983 Gordon & Macphail

Longmorn 16yo & 1983 Gordon & Macphail

20th January 202519th January 2025Coldorak

It’s been quite some time since we last reviewed a Longmorn, so today we’ll be looking at two expressions from this Speyside distillery. First, we’ll start with the now-retired official Longmorn 16-year-old, followed by a licensed bottling from Gordon & MacPhail, distilled in 1983. These two whiskies represent both official and independent releases, offering a look at different sides of Longmorn.

Glen Keith 1996 Wemyss Malts

13th January 202512th January 2025Coldorak

This humble blog welcomes two new additions to its pages: Glen Keith Distillery and Wemyss Malts. Strangely enough, I was convinced I had already covered both, but it turns out I did not have – so it’s time to fix that! Before diving into the tasting and review of the Glen Keith 1996 Wemyss Malts, named Sweet Disposition, let’s take a moment to introduce both the distillery and the independent bottler.

Unpeated Ledaig Swell de Spirits vs Ledaig 1972

11th January 202510th January 2025Coldorak

Despite having friends who are huge fans of Ledaig, the peated whisky from Tobermory Distillery, it’s never been something I’ve actively sought out. The few Ledaig expressions I’ve tried so far have failed to win me over. I’ve revisited the Ledaig 10 and 18 a few times, but neither has been to my taste. However, as a whisky geek, I believe in exploring distilleries I don’t naturally gravitate toward. It’s important to gain a fuller perspective of what they can offer and see if they might surprise me. So, when friends offered me 10 centilitres of an unpeated Ledaig bottled by Swell de Spirits and suggested splitting a sample of the highly regarded Ledaig 1972, I couldn’t resist. Despite my bias against Ledaig, the opportunity to explore something so unique and revered was too tempting to pass up. With that in mind, I’m putting these two whiskies head-to-head: a 1994 unpeated Ledaig from Swell de Spirits versus a 42-year-old Ledaig 1972. Let’s see if either of them has what it takes to change my opinion and perhaps even make me a believer.

Agitator 2019 & 2020 The Whisky Jury

4th January 20253rd January 2025Coldorak

We stay with Nordic whisky after the Sall Whisky 2020 Whisky Watcher from two days ago, this time with a duo of Agitator whiskies. Agitator Whiskymakare, a Swedish distillery founded in Arboga in 2017, stands out for its innovative production techniques. With an annual capacity of 500,000 litres of pure alcohol (lpa), their methods go beyond the typical marketing buzz around ‘innovation’ often touted by larger distilleries.

For instance, instead of adding water during mashing to extract sugars, Agitator adds water during the milling process. Later, the fermented wash is divided between two pairs of stills that operate under vacuum, enabling distillation at lower temperatures. They also experiment with a variety of grains beyond barley, use unique types of wood, such as chestnut, and even employ wave stave casks. Additionally, their approach to cask filling is unconventional, with some of their new make spirit entering barrels at 55% ABV instead of the standard 63.5%.

Today, we’ll be reviewing two single cask whiskies from Agitator, both selected by an independent bottler, and both using wave stave casks: the Agitator 2019 and 2020, bottled by The Whisky Jury.