Coldorak's whisky blog.
We’re comparing two radically different apple brandies: one hails from the famed French producer Christian Drouin, aged 21 years and bottled by That Boutique-y Calvados Company; the other is an English apple brandy of mysterious origin, discovered by Matt McKay in the stocks of London Distillery Co shortly after he took charge. The two spirits are separated by a striking 30% ABV difference. Hold on tight – this is going to be an intense showdown!
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Auchentoshan Distillery, founded in 1823, stands in the Scottish Lowlands near Glasgow and is one of the few distilleries in Scotland to use triple distillation for every batch, producing a notably light and delicate single malt… sometimes hidden by heavy wood lifting. Auchentoshan enjoys an active market presence worldwide, particularly in Europe and Asia, and is owned by Beam Suntory, which helps ensure visibility across major retail and online platforms. While whisky enthusiasts recognize Auchentoshan for its distinct style, it often sits just below the mainstream radar; the brand is respected but not as heavily marketed or hyped as some other single malts. Let’s have another look at them, as they are under my radar as well, with the Auchentoshan 10-year-old batch 7 from That Boutique-y and a 2009 handfill.
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This week opens with two Grande Champagne cognacs, specially selected and bottled by Malternative Belgium last year – both now, regrettably, sold out. Grande Champagne represents the premier cru of Cognac, renowned for producing spirits of remarkable elegance and complexity, as we’ve seen many times in these pages. Malternative Belgium, an independent bottler with a reputation for consistently high-quality selections, is also celebrated for bringing outstanding casks to enthusiasts, and has yet to disappoint even the most discerning palates. I don’t remember reading a bad review from a Cognac they bottled. Given this pedigree, expectations run high for both the Paul Beau Lot 70 and François Voyer Lot 90 Malternative Belgium we’re reviewing today.
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Port Charlotte whisky stands as Bruichladdich Distillery’s tribute to the heavily peated traditions of Islay, named after the village near the distillery and inspired by the historic Lochindaal distillery that operated there from 1829 to 1929. Production began in 2001, with maturation taking place in the old warehouses at Port Charlotte, using Scottish barley and peated to 40 ppm for a robust but balanced Islay profile. The range includes core bottlings such as the 10-Year-Old and Islay Barley, alongside occasional cask explorations and limited releases, all bottled without chill filtration or artificial colouring. Despite its highly respected reputation among whisky enthusiasts, Port Charlotte is not the brand with the greatest number of bottlings, whether official or independent. It does not see a large quantity of releases each year, certainly not on the scale of some other Islay or Scotch distilleries. The approach at Bruichladdich emphasises quality, provenance, and thoughtful maturation over sheer volume, which means that every new Port Charlotte expression draws considerable interest when it appears, but they remain relatively scarce in comparison to industry giants and prolific independent bottlings. So today, we’ll review an official bottling of a private cask and two indy bottlings from the same vintage, with a Port Charlotte 2001 and two 2002 from WhiskySponge and Maltbarn.
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We stay another day on the advent calendar with the next window, the third of the 2024 Boutique-y Advent Calendar, where we found a sample of Balmenach 15-year-old Batch 4 That Boutique-y Whisky Company. Balmenach remains a relatively rare encounter, as noted during the first review of this distillery here – also the only one before this. So it is independent bottlers that primarily bring Balmenach to wider attention, with all but a few expressions experienced here coming from these indies. Appreciation goes to the independent bottlers for enabling whisky enthusiasts to explore this distillery beyond its typical role in blends.
For several years now—though the exact starting point is unclear to me—the English retailer Master of Malt has organised its Whisky Santa event. Participants send their whisky wishes through social media for a chance to win, with some exceptional bottles chosen by the team at MoM as special prizes. Occasionally, this humble author took a chance, fully aware that winning seemed unlikely due to residing in France and the shipping restrictions caused by Brexit. Despite this, I continued to participate, and Whisky Santa eventually granted my wish at the end of last year by sending the Boutique-y Whisky Company 2024 Advent Calendar.
Since Whisky Santa could not ship directly to France—something about elves with outdated passports and a sled under repair—the calendar arrived at a trusted friend’s address. Coincidentally, that friend happens to be Dave Worthington, Boutique-y Whisky’s own brand ambassador. When we met again in London at the end of May, during a short trip with my children, the opportunity arose to collect all the whisky previously sent to Dave due to similar shipping challenges.
As this calendar now belongs to last year, and with plans to explore a Cognac advent calendar this year, I’ve decided to open it outside the traditional season. The tasting will not follow the original order; instead, some drams will be grouped together for review. For now, I’ll skip door number one and instead reveal door number two, which contained an Irish Single Malt Whiskey #1, 15-year-old Batch 6 from That Boutique-y Whisky Company.
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Today’s review focuses on a single bottle, as, usually, we’re trying to review at least two at the same time, for comparison purposes. Coming from Elixir Distillers’ The Single Malts of Scotland range, it features a mystery Speyside distillery. As noted previously, distilleries often withhold permission for independent bottlers to use their brand names. This reluctance reflects a concern about independent bottlings, potentially outperforming official, high-volume releases and thereby affecting the distillery’s reputation. Consequently, independent bottlers frequently present their whiskies under anonymous or vague labels. In this case, the 2010 vintage labelled simply as ’A Speyside Distillery’ by Elixir Distillers invites speculation about its true origin.
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Glen Spey, one of the four distilleries located in Rothes, Scotland, appears to have ceased whisky production in recent years, shifting its focus to gin production for Diageo. Unfortunately, available information on this transition is quite limited – so if anyone knows more about it, please do reach out! Despite an annual capacity of about 1.4 million litres, Glen Spey’s output has long been dedicated primarily to blending – most notably for J&B, which we’ve reviewed a few times recently. Interestingly, older casks from Glen Spey still surface through independent bottlers, which is what draws our attention today – let’s discover the Glen Spey 2011 vanWees and a 1997 from The Whisky Agency
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It’s been a few weeks since we last had old grain whiskies, so today, we review two Cameronbridge coming from the same independent bottler, distilled on the same year and bottled at the same age on the same year as well. Will they be the same as well? Let’s find out, as we review two 1973 Cameronbridge 37-year-old from Scott’s Selection.
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Today, we examine three recent releases from Thompson Bros, an independent bottler based in Dornoch. The team stays busy with their independent bottling operations, the Whisky Castle bar, the Dornoch distillery, and the ongoing construction of a new distillery called Struie. The whiskies we review are the Aultmore 14-year-old, Glentauchers 2006, and Inchgower 1997 Thompson Bros, all issued at the end of last year.
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