More Drams, Less Drama

Sall Whisky 2020 Whisky Watcher

2nd January 20252nd January 2025Coldorak

Sall Whisky Distillery, a Danish microdistillery, was established in late 2018 by a group of friends with a shared vision of making a fully local whisky using their own home-grown, organic cereals. Their journey began with the launch of their new make in 2019, followed by their inaugural single malt whisky in early 2023, aged just three years. In 2024, they introduced three small-batch releases – Muld, Tørv, and Glød. However, today’s review focuses on a unique offering: the Sall Whisky 2020 Whisky Watcher. This release, from Whisky Watcher – a Danish shop and independent bottler specialising in whisky, rum, and other spirits – is the distillery’s only independent bottling to date.

My Recap Of 2024

1st January 20251st January 2025Coldorak

2024 has been quite a unique year for me, both personally and in my journey with spirits. While I’ll keep the personal side of things private – those who need to know are already in the loop – I’d love to share what this year has meant for me in terms of exploring spirits. It’s been about so much more than just whisky, and I’m excited to reflect on the highlights and, of course, reveal my favourite whiskies and spirits of the year.

Hakushu and Yamazaki 25-year-old (2024)

31st December 202430th December 2024Coldorak

Back in September, I attended the Dugas Club Expert show, primarily to catch up with Graham and Fay Coull, who were making an appearance since leaving Dingle. The event featured a stunning Suntory booth, as Dugas distributes their products in France. One side of the booth showcased Laphroaig and Bowmore, while the other side highlighted Suntory’s Japanese brands: Chita, Yamazaki, Hakushu, and Hibiki.

Thanks to the generous pours from Christophe Davoine, House of Suntory’s brand ambassador, I was able to bring home samples of Yamazaki 25-Year-Old and Hakushu 25-Year-Old for a proper review with a fresh palate. We’ve already reviewed the younger Yamazaki expressions – Distiller’s Reserve, 12-Year-Old, and 18-Year-Old – which happens to be one of the most read articles on this humble blog. Before I dive into Hakushu’s lineup, including the Distiller’s Reserve, 12-Year-Old, and 18-Year-Old (coming soon…ish), let’s focus on these 25-Year-Old expressions.

François Voyer Hors d’Âge Cognac

25th December 202424th December 2024Coldorak

For our final dram – already unfortunately – in our Cognac-Expert Advent Calendar, we have a François Voyer Hors d’Âge Cognac, from the Grande Champagne cru. The Chauchet-Voyer family has cultivated their vineyard since the French Revolution in the villages of Verrières and Ambleville, in the Grande Champagne region, renowned for Cognac production. In the late 19th century, Paul André was among the few winemakers distilling their own harvest rather than selling it, leaving behind a legacy that includes a 70-year-old vintage in Voyer’s cellar.

François Voyer Cognac is made exclusively from Grande Champagne grapes, with the family distilling and bottling in-house to ensure quality and preserve tradition. Their expertise has been passed down for five generations since 1870. Dedicated to sustainable farming, François Voyer was one of the first estates to earn the Haute Valeur Environnementale (HVE) certification, awarded by the BNIC after a thorough audit.

Today, François Voyer works with numerous winegrowers across several towns and villages in Grande Champagne. The estate has been entrusted to its current cellar master, Pierre Vaudon, to continue its legacy for years to come.

Hardy Noces de Perle Cognac

24th December 202424th December 2024Coldorak

The penultimate cognac in our Cognac-Expert Advent Calendar is a 30-year-old Hardy Noces de Perle Cognac. Cognac Hardy, established in 1863 by British-born Anthony Hardy, is a testament to passion and resilience in the cognac world. After relocating to France and embracing French culture – adopting the name Antoine and the rooster as his emblem – Hardy earned a stellar reputation for his dedication to Fine Champagne cognac, evidenced by awards such as the 1869 Diploma of Excellence at the Amsterdam Exhibition. Despite challenges like the devastating phylloxera outbreak in the late 19th century, Hardy preserved sufficient reserves to rebuild and expand globally. Over generations, leadership passed through family hands, with each era bringing innovation and market growth. Notable milestones include the invention of ‘Anniversary’ cognacs in 1960, marked by the creation of iconic decanters like Noces de Perle (30 years) and Noces d’Albâtre (75 years). Under Jacques Hardy’s leadership, the company extended its reach to new continents. He retired in 1999, and the company name changed from A. Hardy et Cie to Cognac Hardy.

Domaine La Prenellerie Hors d’Âge Cognac

23rd December 202422nd December 2024Coldorak

For the twenty-second and antepenultimate dram from our Cognac-Expert Advent Calendar, we have a 50-year-old Domaine La Prenellerie Hors d’Âge Cognac, from the Bons Bois cru. At the Domaine de la Prenellerie, winemaking has been a family tradition for generations. In 1966, Guy Billonneau took over his grandmother’s farm in Épargnes, which, at the time, combined crop farming and livestock. Seeing the potential of the land near the Estuary, he shifted entirely to viticulture. He learned the craft from his father, Robert Billonneau, who was also a winegrower. Over nearly four decades, Guy focused on producing Cognac and Pineau.

In 2003, his son, Frédéric Billonneau, who was working in import/export, decided to produce wine from a small plot of Merlot vines. Using traditional methods, including hand harvesting, his initial project grew into a larger venture. Frédéric eventually took over the family estate, expanding its production to include red, rosé, and white wines in addition to Cognac and Pineau.

In 2020, the estate received ‘Haute Valeur Environnementale’ certification, reflecting its efforts in biodiversity conservation, fertilisation management, and water use practices.

Grosperrin N°76 Grande Champagne Cognac

22nd December 202421st December 2024Coldorak

As a conclusion to the third week into our Cognac-Expert Advent Calendar, we found a Grosperrin N°76 Grande Champagne Cognac. Jean Grosperrin began his career in the wine industry as a distiller in Lorraine in the early 1980s before moving to Cognac, where he became a broker in 1991 and a wholesaler in 1994. In 1999, he started bottling his own casks, leveraging strong relationships with both Cognac winemakers and traders. During his career, he discovered many rare, heirloom Cognacs stored in the region’s cellars, offering a glimpse into pre-modern winemaking traditions. This network allowed him access to some of the oldest and most sought-after eaux-de-vie. Jean retired in 2003 due to health issues.

Today, Grosperrin Cognac remains a family-run business, led by Jean’s son, Guilhem Grosperrin, since 2004. The house maintains rigorous standards, ensuring full traceability of dates and vintages. Cognacs are stored under state control in ORECO warehouses, bottled under the supervision of a bailiff, and sealed with traceable labels and certificates, preserving the integrity of each release.

Henry Toursier Extra Cognac

21st December 202420th December 2024Coldorak

We’ve reached the 20th pouch in our Cognac-Expert Advent Calendar, and this time it reveals a Henry Toursier Extra Cognac. The story of Henry Toursier dates back to 1888 when the Bordeaux entrepreneur established his trading house, gaining a strong reputation for exporting Sauternes, Cognac, and Bordeaux Clairet. Despite its early success, the brand faded into obscurity due to the absence of a successor.

In 2013, Alain Palissière, a Cognac merchant passionate about local history, breathed new life into the brand. While restoring a old house in the Charente countryside, he uncovered stencils and posters bearing the Henry Toursier name. Inspired by this discovery, Palissière revived the Maison Henry Toursier, combining traditional methods with modern techniques to craft new Cognac blends and honour the house’s history.

Godet 43 Years Old Single Cask Cognac

20th December 202419th December 2024Coldorak

We’re unfortunately approaching the end of our Cognac-Expert Advent Calendar as we’re already on the 19th cognac today: a Godet Single Cask Fall Edition. Cognac Godet, based in La Rochelle, France, has a history dating back to 1588 when it was founded by Dutch merchant Bonaventure Godet. The company has remained in the hands of the Godet family for 15 generations, making it one of the oldest family-run Cognac houses still in operation.

In 1699, under the reign of Louis XIV, Jean Godet was ennobled and granted a coat of arms featuring three goblets and a star, reflecting the family’s longstanding involvement in Cognac production. The Godet family successfully navigated challenges like the phylloxera crisis of the late 19th century, replanting their vineyards around La Rochelle and maintaining their focus on producing high-quality Cognac.

Now led by the 15th generation, with brothers Jean-Édouard, Maxime, and Cyril Godet, the company continues to blend tradition with innovation. Their work includes preserving rare grape varieties and emphasising craftsmanship in their cognacs, such as in the “Roots of Cognac” collection.

The house’s location near the Atlantic Ocean has played a significant role in its history, with cellars positioned along the La Rochelle coastline for centuries. This proximity to the sea is said to influence the character of their cognacs, which reflect the family’s long experience and dedication to their craft.

Marancheville GC30 Cognac

19th December 202418th December 2024Coldorak

On the 18th day of our Cognac-Expert Advent Calendar, we found a Marancheville GC30 Cognac. In the early 2000s, brothers-in-law Grégoire Lucas and Laurent Nedelec moved their families to Cognac to work in the family distillery. It didn’t take long for them to become deeply passionate about the industry. While the distillery’s primary focus remains producing eaux-de-vie for some of the biggest names in Cognac, in 2012, they decided to launch their own small range of cognacs under their own label — thus, Marancheville Cognac was born.

Drawing on decades of family experience and a strong network of Cognac professionals, Laurent and Grégoire sought advice and expertise to help create the brand and its cognacs. Though distillation for major houses remains their core business, these cognac merchants and winegrowers dedicate significant time, effort, and skill to developing their own range.